Cool, classic, sexy with a rugged edge at Max Mara

Milan: Max Mara presented a cohesive Pre-Fall collection that not only took in it's artistic surroundings, but also pre-empted it's collaboration with the opening of the Whitney Museum of Art in May. The surroundings of the museum is prolific in artistic memoir: the 'vivacious' culture of the period, including 'Roxy' music and the art of the 80's. Consequently, the foundation of ...
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Grunge and rebellious tailoring at Casely-Hayford

London: The father-and-son duo dedicated their latest outing to ‘outsiders’. The designers proved that a collection could be relaxed but still packed a punch when it comes to details. The experimentation with fabric, detailing and layering made a huge impact – dandy brocades, sturdy materials and military-inspired elements were some of the highlights. Formal blazers and classic coat shapes came ...
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Patched and laid-back at James Long

London: James Long is a master of fabric manipulation, and for his A/W 15 outing played with contrasts - utility materials were combined with lace appliqués masterfully. Long’s stellar lineup was presented with his unique twist on voluminous proportions and heavily layered silhouettes. Illustrations by East London artists James Davidson stood out on knits - they were inspired by the ...
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Utility men adrift at Christopher Raeburn

London: Christopher Raeburn mentioned survival, endurance and immersion as inspiration for his latest collection, which he named ‘Raft’. The designer offered a balanced and playful exploration of color, technique and fabrication. An actual life raft was re-appropriated to create paneled parkas and bomber jackets in bright yellow and orange tones. Latex rubber was cleverly used on inflatable puffer jackets and ...
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Smartened-up utility at Margaret Howell

A lightness of touch that came through in both the sharp silhouettes and fine tailoring fabrics lent this collection a crispness slightly at odds with the usual heavy duty focus on utility favourites at Margaret Howell, emphasising a new, relaxed take on more formal menswear classics instead. Smart casual suiting is something the brand excels at and this season was ...
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Effortless hair looks at Christopher Shannon, Matthew Miller and James Long

At the London Collections: Men fashion shows this season, designers such as Christopher Shannon, Matthew Miller and James Long opted for effortless undone hairstyles. Session stylist and creative director of Fudge, John Vial created the hair look at the three shows where he explained that this season hair is moving away from being too over-styled towards a more undone, effortless textured ...
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70s elegance at J.W. Anderson

Jonathan Anderson again proved his calibre with a 70s-inspired collection that could have held its own in Paris or Milan, reconfirming the strength of London as a fashion capital for menswear. There was a tough elegance to the show that felt influenced by strong theatrical characters like Rudolf Nureyev, sophisticated and luxurious but masculine too, ensuring the retro mood was ...
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Artisanal chaos at Matthew Miller

London: Resistant was the name given to Matthew Miller’s collection for A/W 15 – 'I want to destroy everything, I can’t help it, it’s in my nature’ – stated the designer backstage. Equally inspired by romance and decay, Miller’s conceptual outing highlighted masculinity and political issues. For instance, jackets, coats and tailored trousers were shredded and ripped, then stitched or ...
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Deconstructed wardrobe essentials at Agi & Sam

London: The London duo collection began with a visit to Agi’s family home in Yorkshire where his mother had some drawings from a clothing range he had designed at the age of four. Its name was ‘The Coolman Collection’. The designers tore apart coats and jackets. They were given to schoolchildren who were asked to put the pieces back together ...
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Smartened-up utility at YMC

Unashamedly commercial but with enough newness coming through in terms of exciting materials that update some core menswear staples, this latest collection from YMC is a great reflection of how UK contemporary casualwear has evolved to sophisticated new levels. The way that popular themes from previous seasons, like matching coordinates and smartened-up tracksuits, are overlapped to create new takes on ...
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Lounge sportswear at Astrid Andersen

No great departures this season as Astrid Andersen sticks to what she does well, everyday sportswear updated with unexpected textures and colours. Her luxury street-inspired signature felt tougher for autumn/winter, bulked-up to deal with cold weather, and had subtle military undertones too. Velour and lace played an important role, offset with PVC to give the lounge feel a subversive edge, ...
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Tailored casualwear at Lou Dalton

Tailoring has been playing a greater role than ever in Dalton’s collections, the exciting thing about the way she uses formal influences being that they blend seamlessly with her signature devotion to accessible and functional items. The result again this season is that her suiting feels youthful, thanks to the loose and relaxed silhouettes, while the classic casualwear pieces running ...
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Sports and “trash culture” at Christopher Shannon

London: Christopher Shannon continued his exploration of ‘trash culture’ combining elements of sportswear in more traditional fabrics, oversized shapes and feminine details. Inspired by photographers including Nigel Shafran, plastic bags covered model faces and adorned intarsia sweaters. The collection was an innovative and politically charged message with a dose of whimsy – a can of cola with the word ‘broke’ ...
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Relaxed sportswear at Liam Hodges

A youthful-feeling mix of outdoors functionality and subversive graphic messages underpinned another standout collection from Hodges, this time shifting emphasis from Boy Scout uniforms to casual everyday sportswear. Instead of death metal-loving teens he looked to young market traders for inspiration this season, driving the laidback, wrapped-up all-weather looks peppered with trademark stallholder accessories like flat caps, fingerless gloves and ...
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Oversized clerical sportswear at Nicomede Talavera

The redefined silhouettes from Talavera’s MAN debut, broken-up using unexpected proportions and blocks of contrast pattern, echoed through this collection but were reimagined with a much stronger slant towards commercially accessible pieces. It had a sense of easiness to it rooted in the pyjama-like layers of lightweight jackets, woven tops and parachute trousers, heavily influenced by iconic sportswear pieces - ...
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