Karen Walker -

  DURABLE CHARM New York: As she has in the past, Karen Walker drew inspiration for her latest collection from retro designs. This time Walker’s talent for predicting which style details of past eras will work for the modern woman resulted in a collection that possessed both vintage charm and clean newness. Printing a watercolor floral on velveteen and using heavy ...
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CHARLOTTE RONSON -

GYPSY ROSE New York: Taking a step away from the 80s-inspired knit-heavy collection of last season, this time around Charlotte Ronson turned her eye back in time to about a decade or so earlier.  But despite the preponderance of 70s bohemian references, she stuck to the New York code of head-to-toe black, punctuated occasionally with a streak of silken cornflower blue ...
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Jason Wu -

CHEMICAL REACTION New York: The meteoric rise of Jason Wu is every young designer’s dream. Just over a year ago, Wu had a small operation, but after Michelle Obama’s endorsement on Inauguration night, his business expanded exponentially. His current collection demonstrates that Wu is still growing into his new status. Determined not to be a one-hit wonder, the designer expanded on ...
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Alexander Wang -

WALL STREET WAIFS New York: Alexander Wang’s downtown hipster girl is all grown up and ready to do business. The traditional tailored suit served as a jumping off point for the young designer’s collection, but the results were anything but conservative. Pale grey, pinstriped and black suitings were chopped and layered into slim ensembles, many featuring notches at the midriff or ...
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Cynthia Rowley -

  BEAUTIFUL MONSTER New York: “Monster” is not a look that many women go for when getting dressed in the morning, but Cynthia Rowley’s F/W 10 show made it clear that she intends to change preconceived notions about demons and ogres. Huge furry eyelashes, head-to-toe fringe, and fluffy feathers that trimmed hems and hoods were all components of Rowley’s “monster-girl” vision for ...
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Oumlil -

LUXE PROTECTION New York: Hisham Oumlil, originally from Casablanca, started out doing women's couture in 2005 and quietly started doing menswear two seasons ago. The designer honed his skills on Savile Row and with stints at Loro Piana and Hermés,  so it's no wonder he shows a deft hand at fusing traditional tailoring with modern lines and innovative fabrics. Oumlil's habit ...
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Antonio Azzuolo -

MIDNIGHT COWBOY New York: Antonio Azzuolo is usually known for collections full of updated classics and a colorful preppy vibe, but for F/W 10, he sited the classic 1969 movie Midnight Cowboy as his inspiration, leaving us with an intriguing collection full of Western influences mixed with East Coast tradition. Fair Isle motifs were a strong point of the assortment, placing ...
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Yigal Azrouël -

SOPHISTICATED SEPARATES New York: Yigal Azrouël has amassed a following for his draped dresses that are at once sexy and sophisticated, but for F/W 10 the designer expanded his offerings to include covetable separates. Soft tapered trousers and simple knit tops were basics that will appeal to every woman, while slim-fitting knit pieces with angular extending side panels looked fresh. Oversized ...
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Jeremy Laing -

CANADIAN CLUB New York: Toronto native Jeremy Laing has quickly become one to watch at the New York shows. Breaking away from the cold architectural styles that characterized his Spring collection, Laing's F/W 10 looks had a more earthy, emotional quality. Washed leathers in rust and mud tones felt warm and rich, and oversized cardigans and sweaters in a popcorn knit ...
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Generra -

FAIRY TALE TO REALITY New York: With a collection entitled "Whistle While You Work," Swaim and Christina Hutson spun a tale inspired by Snow White and her colorful seven dwarfs. The sophisticated storybook palette of greens, blues and rusts was one of the most vivid so far this season, a welcome relief from all the somber darks seen on other ...
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Costello Tagliapietra -

GEISHA IN THE CITY New York: The suspender-clad duo of Costello Tagliapietra returned to their signature draping for fall. If anything, they pushed it even further, citing a recent trip to Japan and 80s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto as inspirations. Disheveled Gibson Girl buns and cherry red pouts translated the geisha look for modern times. Pants made a rare appearance, ...
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Gilded Age -

INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION New York: Stefan Miljanic's visits to the Gilded Age are authentic — he uses the actual machinery and processes developed during the beginning of the industrial revolution in New England. But even though the collection draws from the same inspirational well each season — "artisanal craft, hand done product, old textiles and older methods of producing textiles" according to ...
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Yigal Azrouël -

DISASSEMBLED + REASSEMBLED New York: Yigal Azrouël continues to hone in on just who the man presented on his runway truly is. For F/W 10, the aesthetic moved away from the casual, beachy side of the designer's life in Costa Rica and transitioned into a more aggressive, urban personality, which was fitting since Azrouël told WWD that his inspiration was a ...
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Robert Geller -

GRITTY ROMANCE New York: Robert Geller's collections always promise poetry and romance and F/W 10 was no exception. Explaining that his inspiration was, "A wayward youth descended from royalty who dresses roughly, but has not forgotten the style of his noble forebears," the show was full of the inky colors, daring stripes and the nostalgic dandyism Geller is so adept ...
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Happy Ghost

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