Luisa Beccaria -

ALL DRESSED UP Queen of the party dress, Luisa Beccaria stuck to what she knows best this season, presenting a lovely array of pastel frocks for Spring. As usual, wearability was key with Beccaria, with simple silhouettes and gorgeous luxe fabrics, like laces and lamés, feeling perfectly red carpet ready. Asymmetrical necklines and stiff oversized ruffles lent a bit of romantic ...
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Gabriele Colangelo -

GESTURAL DESIGN Only in his third season, Gabriele Colangelo has been generating quite a buzz, taking last year's Alta Roma’s Who Is On Next award. Inspired by the gestural abstractions of German-French painter Hans Hartung, the novice designer seemed to loosen up for spring, cultivating a more freeform style than his previous outings. Starting with a palette of white, silver ...
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Jil Sander -

  EXPLODED MINIMALISM Juxtaposing the simplified, clean lines of the Jil Sander aesthetic with deconstructed elements inspired by Michelangelo Antonioni's explosive cult 70s film Zabriskie Point — which played on a screen as the background of the show — Raf Simons created garments that seemed perfectly tailored, then destroyed and re-worked. A black linen sheath had irregular bits of fabric tacked on, ...
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Blumarine -

WEEKEND GETAWAY Blumarine's girl for Spring was an unapologetic jetsetter, eternally ready for a glamorous jaunt to Jamaica or Barbados.  Not for the faint of heart, the collection focused on three key neatly packaged themes: bright resort-friendly tie-dye, a chic Rasta interpretation and updated camoflague. The exuberant tie dyes were an impressive exercise in color play, juxtaposing bright pinks, yellows, greens ...
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Alberta Ferretti -

MOLTO DELICATO Alberta Ferretti’s collection this season was light, delicate and feminine. While that is what one has come to expect from a Ferretti show, this one took the fragile feeling further with deconstructed pieces in sheer chiffon, which allowed simple underpinnings to show through. Dresses were embellished with embroideries or cascades of lush chiffon blossoms. A cage-like apron fashioned from ...
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Versace -

SIGNATURE SEXY Versace’s collection read like a greatest hits of the label’s archives – chain mail, cutouts, vibrant prints, corsetry, va-va-voom hair and very, very short skirts. Donatella Versace seemed to be reminiscing about her brother Gianni’s heyday as she designed this season. Skirts and dresses covered just enough skin for a PG-13 rating, but nothing more; other pieces were in ...
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I Love My Suspenders


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Just Cavalli -

GRUNGE PRINCESS With Nirvana's iconic track "Smells Like Teen Spirit" blasting from the speakers, Just Cavalli's pink tulle went instantly from princess to punky. Rock goddesses were clearly the theme, and besides references to grunge queen Courtney Love, Cavalli also channeled Madonna with satin corsets and pointed bras worn over knit tops and peeking out of dresses. Key items such as ...
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Blugirl -

FAUNA AND FLORA Blugirl's Anna Molinari dabbled in some polished pastel looks but made sure to stick mostly to what she's known for — feminine pieces with a playful twist and plenty of youthful appeal. Color and print packed some serious punch for Junior-friendly looks, from asymetrical ruffle necklines to bow-neck blouses with voluminous puff sleeves. Molinari pulled out all ...
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reflections of shoes past

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Trend Les Copains -

PURL JAM Trend Les Copains, little sister to the luxury Italian powerhouse Les Copains, set its focus on knits this spring. In a palette of camel, olive, ecru and black, Trend Les Copains created textured knit pieces that were lightened with all sorts of eyelets and openwork. Fit-and-flare skirts looked especially fresh, paired with matching cardigans. Designer Albino D’Amato also experimented ...
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mini

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Daniela Gregis -

RUSTIC ELEGANCE With her strongly realized spring show, Daniela Gregis turned several fashion preconceptions on their heads. The young designer built her collection on layers of oversized dresses, wide-legged capris, button-up menswear shirts, long tunics, and wrapped scarves that recalled simple peasants and countryside dressing. The styling could have looked heavy and frumpy, but with a limited palette of neutrals and ...
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Albino -

  AFRICAN ENCLAVE In a collection of billowing silhouettes, designer Albino D’Amato used safari looks from the 20s as a point of departure for new jacket shapes and print inspirations. Fabrics softly draped the body in a palette of warm neutrals like sand and clay, with accents of indigo blue. All-things African — gazelles, cranes, leopards and palm trees — made ...
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D&G -

MILD MILD WEST Iconic Americana is a perennial source of inspiration for designers around the world. This season power duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana turned their gaze to 60s spaghetti westerns and the days of covered wagons as points of reference for Spring. Artfully voluminous skirts gave their bucolic cowgirl a touch of sophistication, while lightweight denim shirts and relaxed ...
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