loose weave

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Issey Miyake -

INTERNATIONAL CODE Drawing inspiration from traditional dress and textiles around the world, Dai Fujiwara presented an ambitious spring collection that put his own stamp on the Miyake name. With such far-ranging influences, the focus of the collection was hard to pin down, as the palette transitioned between icy pastels, bubbly brights and murky vegetals. What did unite the collection were the brand's ...
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A.F. Vandevorst -

DESERT BLOOM With underwear invading the ready-to-wear runways, A.F. Vandevorst had the perfect starring vehicle for their growing line of intimates. The duo has always incorporated lingerie-inspired pieces into their sportswear collection, but this season unmentionables took center stage. The designers seemed to imagine a woman stranded in the desert, with nothing in her possession but a truck full of undergarments ...
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Maison Martin Margiela -

MIXED BAG Under the helm of an anonymous design team after Martin Margiela announced his retirement last year, the renowned avant-garde label has been struggling to find its footing. Although the spring collection delivered no new message of the kind many look to Margiela for, it did touch on many of the major themes emerging this season and put a conceptual ...
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Jean Paul Gaultier -

INNER BEAUTY Lingerie and corsetry have played a major role in Junior-friendly collections so far this season, so it's only natural that the king of innerwear-as-outerwear jumped on board. Jean Paul Gaultier brought back the original cone bra, made famous by Blonde Ambition-era Madonna, working it into the bib of silk overalls, bringing sex appeal to striped dresses and and layering ...
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Cacharel -

SHIRT STORY The button-up shirt served as the starting point in Cédric Charlier's debut for Cacharel, inspiring a collection high on wearability and prettiness, and therefore, perfectly brand-appropriate. The former Lanvin assistant deconstructed the classic shirt into a skirt that used the yoke as a peplum, belted jumpsuits, and slightly askew blouses with misplaced lapels and crooked pintucks. For a sportier ...
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Bernhard Willhelm -

ALL MIXED UP Bernhard Willhelm has been gaining popularity among a certain crowd of creative, downtown types, widening his influence through a savvy use of print and silhouette. His elongated, draped pieces are fresh and youthful without being too contrived, appealing to those customers looking for clothing that makes an individual statement. S/S 10 brought out a loose, easy shape that was given ...
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Haider Ackerman -

PEACE MARCH Known for his artful drapery in supple materials, Haider Ackerman produced a sensuous meditation on the military uniform for S/S 10. In a neutral palette of gray, buff, tan, muted olive and deep navy, accented with saffron yellow, leathers and silks were wrapped, knotted and pieced together, creating draped army jackets, pajama-soft cargo pants, roll-hem shorts and fishtail skirts. ...
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Junya Watanabe -

WELL SUITED Following last season’s obsessive deconstruction of the puffer jacket, Junya Watanabe set his sights on the pantsuit for spring. With seams that curved in at the waist and swooped out at the hip, the menswear pieces took on a beautifully feminine hourglass shape. Watanabe first presented the suit as whole, then proceeded to riff on each element — first ...
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Ann Demeulemeester -

  BLACK MAGIC Ann Demeulemeester found a balance between the forces of dark and light in a witchy collection of black, white, grey and silver for S/S 10. Zippers gave her signature punk-and-goth-influenced separates a harder edge, used for both function and decoration, as in the multiple draped strands of silvery zips ornamenting jackets. Torsos were bare except for black leather bandeaus ...
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Sophia Kokosalaki -

GODDESS DRESSING Sophia Kokosalaki managed to hit all the right notes this season while maintaining her own identity. She referenced the tribal trend with Native American-inspired leather fringe and beaded appliqués on vests; she included structured lingerie pieces, both standing alone and peeking out from under other garments, and she kept it feminine, working in a predominantly pale palette with ...
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Manish Arora -

INSIDE OUT In a refreshing turn from last season’s Animal Kingdom theme, Manish Arora harnessed his intricate handwork for an interesting look at the mysteries of the human body. Possibly inspired by the groundbreaking Bodies... the Exhibition, which examines the complexities that lie beneath the skin, he emphasized strong shoulders with padding and harnesses in organic shapes, and articulated skeletal structures ...
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Dior -

BOUDOIR NOIR The Dior show started off with a bang, literally, with a silhouetted man wielding a gun and in hot pursuit of our damsel in distress, clad in a vampy silver lamé trench coat dress. Never one to shy away from theatrics, Galliano followed up on his lingerie-centric couture show with a 1940s Hollywood Noir theme, inspired by vintage photographs ...
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Isabel Marant -

TREND BLENDER Isabel Marant is a designer who can still claim underground cult status despite her growing popularity and name recognition. She's known as the accessible designer for cool girls, an arbiter of trend who predicts what everyone will want to wear each season. S/S 10 is her last presentation before the slated launch of her first New York boutique ...
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Yohji Yamamoto -

GOTHIC ROMANCE With whited-out faces and teased hair that curved around the face, Yohji Yamamoto’s models looked a bit like The Cure’s Robert Smith, but the Goth hair and makeup distracted from the mostly lovely and wearable clothes. Yamamoto stepped away from outsize proportions this season, going more for a romantic Belle Epoque meets punk look. Boning and piping were an ...
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