Narciso Rodriguez -

UP AND AWAY After last season’s experiment in toughness and body-con silhouettes, Narciso Rodriguez returned to his comfort zone, working with his signature sheath dresses and tailored separates. While he incorporated his mastery of architectural structure into faux-bustiers, this season seemed to be mostly about lightness and buoyancy. His flawless shifts – best in a papaya color — never looked ...
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Cuckoo for Coco

Stars stepped out in style in New York on Tuesday night, decked in their Chanel-inspired best, for the New York premiere of Coco Before Chanel, a biopic starring the lovely Audrey Tautou as the first lady of modern sportswear. The film follows Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel through the trials and tribulations in her life and offers a glimpse into how this ...
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Oscar de la Renta -

  WORLD VIEW In an elegant runway show in an Upper East Side location befitting his ladies-who-lunch aesthetic, Oscar de la Renta presented an international-themed collection that captured a youthful energy but had enough luxurious panache to please his uptown clientele.  Utilitarian African safari suits were styled with straw Panama hats and basket woven strips, broderie anglaise trimming, and a halo of ...
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Alexandre Herchcovitch -

KALEIDOSCOPE KITSCH Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch straddles the line between avant-garde and realistic, often showing bright, bold pieces with interesting construction and experimental fabrics. S/S 10 combined a kaleidoscopic use of color and graphic prints with references to football, in a less literal and more playful way than Alexander Wang's homage to the sport earlier this week. Short dresses were the ...
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Doo. Ri -

RUFFLED FEELINGS Doo-Ri Chung implemented one key design detail that remained consistent throughout her S/S 10 collection: the feminine ruffle. Known for her light-handed touch with origami-like construction, Doo-Ri's folds and flounces seemed to balance the dichotomy between hard and soft and light and shadow, in a misty palette ranging from silver lining to moonless night. Duchesse satin, silk chiffon, ...
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The Milan Color Scheme

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Anna Sui -

SCHOOLGIRL MIXUP Anna Sui is nothing if not reliable, consistently pulling from a cavalcade of eras and cultures, and funneling them into fun, flirtatious collections. S/S 10 was a bit less blatantly referential while still disseminating a cheeky, 60s schoolgirl style into windowpane check suiting, peter pan collars and fitted menswear vests. Contrasted with pieced-together floral prints, these ensembles created a ...
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3.1 Phillip Lim -

WEARABLE INNOVATION Phillip Lim advocated elegant comfort with easy separates and embellished party dresses for his 3.1 Phillip Lim collection this season. The first look down his red prism runway was a matching lipstick red suit with its jacket tucked into the loose drawstring pants, representing a new styling trend seen in other New York collections. The pants’ folded-over ...
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Gerlan Jeans -

PASTEL POP Young designer Gerlan Marcel aspires to the segment of fashion that Jeremy Scott (her former boss) and Henry Holland inhabit — a raucous, playful place where the street and the runway meet. Her second New York runway collection focused on pastels and a decidedly 90s look that touched on major Junior trends like bike shorts, cropped silhouettes, overalls and ...
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Michael Kors -

MOD SQUAD For S/S 10, Michael Kors visited the futuristic influences that sparked 60s designers like Paco Rabanne, Courréges and Cardin. In a palette of mostly white mixed with opalescent finishes and candy-mint shades, fabrics were cut into the clean silhouettes of the Mod era.  Exposed zippers segmented architectural leather sheath dresses into triangular shapes, while a crinkled cotton version had ...
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Michael Kors -

PALM BEACH OF THE FUTURE This season signaled a departure for Michael Kors, a designer usually enamored with the WASP traditions of time-honored destinations like Palm Beach. His S/S 10 showing took a decidedly futuristic approach to classic sportswear and tailoring. The water-color palette of mint green and periwinkle blue had accents of pebble grey, sand and optic white to ...
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Proenza Schouler -

TROPICAL FANTASY Proenza Schouler’s collection seemed to take its girl on a surfing vacation, stopping through a rainforest on the way home. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough played with activewear materials, elongating elements of traditional color-blocked board shorts into chic, slim pants and re-fashioning a royal blue and black windbreaker into a skirt, worn with a shiny perforated button-up shirt ...
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Lost & Found

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Folded

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Hello Fall, Goodbye Beach

As fall takes hold and the water of the lakes, pools and oceans turns from tepid to frigid, lets say goodbye to the beach with vintage seaside fashion that goes beyond the one-piece wool bathing suit. Happy Fall.
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