Headonism -

HAT TRICK London Fashion Week kicked off in dramatic style today with Headonism, a showcase of emerging British milliners curated by mad hatter Stephen Jones.  Styles ranged from the functional, to the artfully beautiful, to the downright absurd.  Soren Bach invented a rabbit fur Princess Leia-style earmuff style to cure the winter blues.  A seemingly normal veiled pillbox hat was paired ...
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Tommy Hilfiger -

AMERICAN DREAM Officially closing out New York Fashion Week, Tommy Hilfiger returned to the runway with an unapologetic portrayal of the clean-cut, all-American aesthetic for which he's always been known. While there were certainly no directional styles on his S/S 10 runway, there were fun and youthful takes on the boy next door. All the looks, including suits and tuxedos, ...
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Dan Single of Ksubi

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Altuzarra -

TEXTURAL TALE Newcomer Joseph Altuzarra caused quite a stir with his debut collection last season, and all eyes were focused on him, anxious to see if he could live up to the buzz. His sophomore effort was a successful mash-up of texture, piecing and integrating materials as diverse as suede and swiss dot. Woven strips of leather decorated many ...
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United Bamboo -

POIRET MEETS PIERROT This week in New York, Paul Poiret met Pierrot and clashed with a bevy of modern art masters by way of United Bamboo’s spring collection.  Silhouettes bloomed from the empire waist, tapering down to a narrow fit around the knee or ankle to evoke images of vintage costumes from the circus and the Ballet Russes.  Prim sheaths were ...
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Threeasfour -

ODE TO ONO The art world embraced Threeasfour from the beginning — their bohemian lifestyle, performance art proclivities and eccentric collections making it an inevitable romance. This season, the label solidifies its bond with art by collaborating with legendary conceptual artist Yoko Ono. Ono’s Cut Piece performance work was the foundation for the runway presentation, with each model taking ...
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Phi -

BALANCED TENSION With their tousled hair, stark palette of white, black and clay, and trappings that were full of utilitarian details, Phi’s models looked like post-apocalyptic explorers stomping through the Lower East Side.  For his spring collection, Andreas Melbostad aimed to achieve a “balanced tension” of “soft and hard, leather against skin.”  Ann Demeulemeester-style strap-and-buckle contraptions — as well as trapunto ...
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Timo Weiland -

EDWARDIAN SPORT Edgy and girly are typically thought of at opposite ends of the aesthetic spectrum, but designer Timo Weiland and partner Alan Eckstein were able to integrate these contradictory forces in their debut New York women's collection.  Their self-described "Sporty Edwardian" look felt simultaneously classic and new, creating a balanced look with items like soft satin blazers and sheer biker ...
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Timo Weiland -

MODERN EDWARDIAN Timo Weiland's S/S 10 collection moved forward in a big way, showcasing a kind of modern dandy inspired by the prim and proper Edwardian period. The foppish bow tie, for which he has come to be known, was styled with a basic woven shirt and scoop necked sweater. Pants were cropped, pleated and tapered — probably the biggest statement ...
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Calvin Klein Collection -

TECHNO NATURE Francisco Costa took the clean lines associated with namesake designer Calvin Klein and moved the Collection label into the future with innovative fabrics for S/S 10. Super lightweight organza was mixed with metal fibers to create moldable separates that were bent or crushed into shape. A crinkled, handmade quality was brought to organic cotton, raw silk, rough linen and ...
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Ralph Lauren -

AMERICAN IDEAL The faltering economy must have gotten Ralph Lauren thinking about the Great Depression, as he re-explored the work clothes and sauntering style of that period, complete with tomboy-ish newsboy caps and suspenders. Denim, the great American fabric, was the foundation of the collection – first shown in baggy, distressed jeans with a wide cuff and as utilitarian blazers, later ...
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Indigo bandage

Max Azria expanded on the now famous Hervé Léger bandage dress for the collection he presented in NYC for "Hervé Léger by Max Azria". The denim styles were inspired by the heavily distressed denim washes we are currently seeing. The 'bandage' styles were made out of mixed fabric and indigo shades and were frayed at the edges or treated with ...
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Buggin’ Out

Brasilia is known worldwide not only for its architecture designed by Oscar Niemeyer and Lúcio Costa, but also for fashion and social initiatives to work as incentives for designers to focus on sustainable materials. Capital Fashion Week's seventh edition included runway presentations and a trade show. One of the stand-out designers for the season was Akihito Hira, whose collection "Metamorphic ...
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LONDON I AM HERE

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back again

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