S2A x KoL

Surface to Air (the Paris-based collective responsible for everything from Louis Vuitton commercials to the launch of Uniqlo in Paris) has teamed up with it-band Kings of Leon for a limited 12-piece capsule collection you might call a rock star starter kit. Among other things, you'll find a shrunken black leather jacket, a tattered and torn fringe scarf, pieced flannel ...
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cut

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dress shirt

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Viktor & Rolf -

GLAMOUR FACTORY Paris: Known for their runway spectacles, the duo behind Viktor & Rolf created another memorable one for the archives. Dubbed the Glamour Factory, the show employed retired model Kristen McMenamy as a makeshift coat rack, with almost half the collection piled on her thin body. As each model walked out, McMenamy would shed a layer and the designers would ...
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Cacharel -

SCHOOLGIRL CHARM Paris: In his second collection for the Parisian institution, Cédric Charlier seemed to be in a nostalgic mood, much like the customers who have been frantically snatching up the re-worked Cacharel and Liberty vintage released at Colette last month. While his debut took the house in a more contemporary direction, this fall’s charming coquette revisited the classic, sweetly-playful side ...
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Maison Martin Margiela -

ACCESSIBLE ABSURDITY Paris: Ever since Martin Margiela announced his retirement last December, the anonymous design team that has taken up the helm has been struggling to find its footing and strike the same balance between experimentation and accessibility that garnered the maison a cult-like following. While it was hard for anyone other than Lady Gaga to find meaning behind last season’s ...
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Haider Ackermann -

LANGUID LEATHER Paris: Rising star designer Haider Ackermann’s collection was his strongest yet. The draped leather pieces that have garnered him so much attention continued, this time with trapunto stitching that created a ribbed appearance and provided more structure. The pieces were used for slim vests with a hemline that came to a dramatic point and corset-like belts with asymmetrical zippers. ...
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Comme des Garçons -

PILLOW TALK Paris: Never a woman of many words, Rei Kawakubo succinctly described her Comme des Garçons F/W 10 collection as “inside decoration”. While on the surface, the description seemed obvious, as what looked like tiny throw pillows decorated the garments, but with Kawakubo it’s never that easy. “Inside decoration” could also refer to the profundity of the work, the designer ...
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TSUMORI CHISATO -

CIRCUS CIRCUS Paris: Wit and whimsy is Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato's territory and there she delightfully stayed for her 20th anniversary show. Chisato is known for her joyous use of prints and graphics and laissez-faire attitude towards color, and she seamlessly wove these elements into several stories that were loosely based on the concept of circus performers and gypsy vagabonds. While ...
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ISABEL MARANT -

SOCKHOP SOIRÉE Paris: Like many other designers this season, Isabel Marant has begun to step away from the strong silhouetted looks of the 1980s — in Marant's case moving towards a flirty and fun 1950s aesthetic (a decade that also informed the 80s with its tight capri pants and pointy pumps.) Paris-based Marant is known for consistently rolling out some of ...
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Pedro Lourenço -

LEATHER-CLAD WUNDERKIND Paris: After showing at São Paulo Fashion Week for the past five years, 19-year-old wunderkind Pedro Lourenço had a much bigger stage in mind for fall — not only presenting in Paris but in the very same room where Yves Saint Laurent showed his couture collections. Surrounded by plenty of buzz and with leading ...
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Roland Mouret -

EASY ELEGANCE Paris: Fall seems to have caught the Mouret woman on her day off, eschewing her sexy cocktail attire in favor of knit shirtdresses, cardigans and hoodies. Mouret has a knack for creating complex, curvy forms out of just a few creatively-placed tucks and darts, and this time the origami folds took on a softer, more fluid elegance in silk ...
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Yohji Yamamoto -

MASTER AT WORK Paris: The masterful work of Yohji Yamamoto continues to inspire with its intensely cerebral exploration of proportion, seams and fashion history, and his deconstructions become ever more subtle and sublime. Yamamoto began his collection in familiar territory with his signature oversized proportions and wide pleats, and it became quickly clear that the designer was meditating on iconic coats ...
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Vivienne Westwood -

CHEEKY CHIC Paris: Queen Viv delivered her particular brand of disheveled chic once again, the seemingly messy ensembles disguising deliberate, artful constructions. This season, Westwood’s collection felt relatively more straightforward, as appealing items easily emerged from the cacophony of graffiti prints, tie-dye and stripes. A rust-colored pantsuit with a jacket featuring exaggerated shoulders and rounded sleeves had a casual-cool thrown-on appeal, ...
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Lanvin -

ANCIENT MODERN Paris: The models’ silky black shoulder-length wigs with severe bangs set the mood for the darkly romantic and exotic Lanvin collection. The hairstyles called to mind the Egyptian queen Cleopatra and signaled an inspiration from the ancient culture. Designer Alber Elbaz introduced a long and languid silhouette for jersey dresses that swirled elegantly around the body with the effortlessness ...
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