Trend Alert – Military Outdoors

Designers place a strong focus on cold-weather utility aspects and functional outerwear for military stories, with heavyweight fabrics and quilting designed to protect against the elements. Authentic army-surplus looks blend with subtle sportswear details and graphic badges, or are styled with tailored trousers to add urban relevance.
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Sharp eclecticism at Burberry Prorsum

Christopher Bailey’s handwriting has become instantly recognisable at Burberry, from the slim tailored silhouettes to the expressive and tasteful use of colour, and for autumn/winter it was more of the same, updated with a rich graphic mixture of luxurious skins and Arts & Crafts-inspired patterns. The combination of shaved furs and plush fabrics with traditional embroidered textiles from around the ...
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BeautyMart introduces sheet masks from The Skin Lounge

Korean beauty products are reaching Western shores thick and fast with the BeautyMart introducing The Skin Lounge’s coveted sheet masks to its carefully curated selection. Providing intensive skin care, The Seoul Trio Collection is made up of three cloth or gel masks enriched with varying treatment serums for different beauty needs. The Deep Hydrating Mask – a cellulose cloth – is soaked ...
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Contrasting moments of movement and stillness at Issa

London: Issa presented wrapping and draping juxtaposed by structured body-con pieces to create contrasting moments of movement and stillness. Creative director Blue Farrier recently left the company but the design team maintained her playful approach and explored the brand's signature wrap construction and introduced a new fresh elegance. The colour palette set a sophisticated mood  - refined navy and black worked ...
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Military meditation at Craig Green

Green’s warrior monks were once again decked-out in his signature hybrid mix of clerical and military references, feeling just as stripped-back and cohesive in terms of message, except that this season the London designer’s collection was noticeably more commercial. But then Green is fast becoming a big name and it makes sense to provide product that allows customers to buy ...
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1940s working man at E. Tautz

There was a post-war 1940s feel to Patrick Grant’s latest collection, dominated by traditional-feeling tailoring combined with uniform references and casual knitwear, producing an authentic take on the idea of smart-casual. Grant’s looks were tough, hardwearing and had a subtle homespun appeal to them, focusing on formal pieces that were timeless and built to last, dressed down with cosy hand-knitted ...
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MADRID: The Table Pop-Up

Located in the URSO boutique hotel in Madrid, is new pop-up restaurant concept The Table, whereby a rotation of six different chefs and the food from their restaurants is featured every month, for six months.
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US retail rents becoming unviable says Gap real estate boss

US rents are reaching a level where the “wheels are about to come off retail”, according to Gap Inc executive David Zoba. Zoba, SVP of global real estate and store development, warned mall operators that rent levels were fast becoming unsustainable at many US retail locations, he told delegates at the National Retail Federation (NRF) Big Show in New York. Speaking during ...
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Chain Gang L.A. – Keeping The Vanishing Art of Chainstitching Alive

With deep roots in Los Angeles' cult car and bike club culture, Tommy D of East LA's The Chain Gang is passionate about keeping the vanishing art of chain stitching alive. To celebrate the heritage craft and showcase their residency at local LA denim store Lot, Stock and Barrel, Tommy D and his team get a highlight through this short ...
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Black Friday failed to raise UK consumer Christmas spending as clothing sales dip in December – report

The debut success of Black Friday shopping to the UK did not deliver a rise in consumers' total Holiday spending, according to new data from Visa Europe. Its latest figures also show spending on clothing and footwear fell 2.2% year-on-year in December. Instead of being a major boost to Holiday spending, deep discounts offered on November 28 drove shoppers to spend ...
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Cool, classic, sexy with a rugged edge at Max Mara

Milan: Max Mara presented a cohesive Pre-Fall collection that not only took in it's artistic surroundings, but also pre-empted it's collaboration with the opening of the Whitney Museum of Art in May. The surroundings of the museum is prolific in artistic memoir: the 'vivacious' culture of the period, including 'Roxy' music and the art of the 80's. Consequently, the foundation of ...
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Grunge and rebellious tailoring at Casely-Hayford

London: The father-and-son duo dedicated their latest outing to ‘outsiders’. The designers proved that a collection could be relaxed but still packed a punch when it comes to details. The experimentation with fabric, detailing and layering made a huge impact – dandy brocades, sturdy materials and military-inspired elements were some of the highlights. Formal blazers and classic coat shapes came ...
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Patched and laid-back at James Long

London: James Long is a master of fabric manipulation, and for his A/W 15 outing played with contrasts - utility materials were combined with lace appliqués masterfully. Long’s stellar lineup was presented with his unique twist on voluminous proportions and heavily layered silhouettes. Illustrations by East London artists James Davidson stood out on knits - they were inspired by the ...
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Utility men adrift at Christopher Raeburn

London: Christopher Raeburn mentioned survival, endurance and immersion as inspiration for his latest collection, which he named ‘Raft’. The designer offered a balanced and playful exploration of color, technique and fabrication. An actual life raft was re-appropriated to create paneled parkas and bomber jackets in bright yellow and orange tones. Latex rubber was cleverly used on inflatable puffer jackets and ...
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Smartened-up utility at Margaret Howell

A lightness of touch that came through in both the sharp silhouettes and fine tailoring fabrics lent this collection a crispness slightly at odds with the usual heavy duty focus on utility favourites at Margaret Howell, emphasising a new, relaxed take on more formal menswear classics instead. Smart casual suiting is something the brand excels at and this season was ...
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