Streamlined and ergonomically sexy at Mugler

Paris: This is the second season for David Koma at Mugler and the second time he did not disappoint. The streamlined tailoring and body-centric silhouettes from Koma were made for sexy iconic bodies. Sleek and sublime slithers of dresses in white, black and blue were detailed with grommets and embroidery that dissected and contoured around the female form. There was a ...
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Mugler

Thoughtful and clever artistry at Haider Ackerman

Paris: Haider Ackerman’s Autumn/Winter collection moved away from his usual languid tailoring and instead, presented a lean multi-layered graphic lineup of streetwise pieces. There was still the clever artistry omnipresent within the styling of the silhouettes – from leather pleated skirts, pieced, wrapped and cut asymmetrically that worked with cropped blouson jackets, skinny leather leggings and loosely tied blouses that bore a ...
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Who Dunnit’ at Chalayan

Paris: Ever the storyteller, Hussein Chalayan looked to the film “Murder on The Orient Express” to tell his tale for fall. Shoulders panels were chopped away on faux-fur jackets and camel coats - tailoring came in loose cuts, slashed and often disfigured- an abstracted idea of a vicious attack. Direct references to the film were made in the fabrications of the ...
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Chalayan

“Liberated, darker and more sexual” at Dior

Paris: Raf Simons described his Autumn/Winter collection for Christian Dior "something more liberated, darker, more sexual." From flora to fauna, it was nothing as feminine as the previous collection but here was a new found commercial lineup. Beginning with a vignette of cutaway little black dresses with contrast coloured hems and mesh collars, the presentation built in crescendo. Masculine tailored ...
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From Calculated Imperfection the individual emerges at Maison Margiela

Paris : John Galliano’s first defile presentation was confident, charming and curious – it was also commercial. Set in the Grand Palais, staged with the Margiela simplicity, white benches, white backdrop, ushers in white coats, it was this creative contradiction that re-established both brand, and creative director, as a major fashion force. From the opening floor length trenches – in ...
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A kaleidoscope of music and colour at Issey Miyake

Paris: Accompanied by Ei Wada’s live performance of playing 8 electric guitars simultaneously alongside Japanese singer Chiyako, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae aroused an intellectual Kaleidoscope of colours and music for his Autumn/Winter collection. As the heart of Issey Miyake, fabric research and innovation have always been a core value for the brand. The invitation gave a premonition of what was to ...
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Issey Miyake

Electric retro future at Carven

Paris: After the announcement of the appointment of Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud as the new artistic directors, the design duo presented the new Carven girl at Paris fashion week. ‘A contemporary, self confident London girl living in Paris, swaying between an electric revival of the late 60’s and the timeless elegance of active Parisian women,’ inspired Caillaudaud and Martial ...
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Intricate craftsmanship at Sharon Wauchob

Paris: The Irish designer Sharon Wauchob presented a confident and feminine collection - thoughtfully engineered investment pieces for a lifetime. The designer’s signature workmanship with lace looked once again exceptionally fresh and new. Intricate lace appeared in elaborate abstract swirling motifs and organic pointillistic patterns on sensual dresses and skirt sets. The opening look, an ivory long lean jacket featured ...
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Sharon Wauchob

Opulence and street mix at Balenciaga.

Paris: It is quite apparent in this Balenciaga collection that Alexander Wang is putting his own stamp on the house DNA. Wang was quoted as saying: "The society women, the aristocrats, the regal women.” . I try to respect the heritage and the history, but also add a twist.” He had in his mind, the original clientele at Balenciaga and ...
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Masculine Monk at Yohji Yamamoto

Paris: Models walked out to quiet and serene music creating an overall sense of peace at the Yohji Yamamoto show. Monk like wrapped dresses were draped against the body revealing Sak Yant tattoos at the neckline and face. Masculine tailoring was minimalist and understated with blazer, maxi skirt sets and oversized button-up shirts. Hip-hop high tops juxtaposed the feminine velvet ...
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Yohji

Nautical military at Isabel Marant

Paris: For autumn/winter 15/16, Isabel Marant continues to dress the chic city woman in flirty mini skirts and dresses paired with more substantial sweaters and jackets. This collection carries an overall nautical and utility influence combining sailor shank button details and nautical stripes, with utility jackets, gold bouillon cord frogging, and epaulettes. Patterns are a mixture of ethnic influenced ikats ...
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La Discothèque at Balmain

Paris: Backstage at Balmain, Olivier Rousteing spoke about “what happened in January” – referring of course to the Charlie Hebdo shootings. With this in his mind, Rousting set out to celebrate Paris as a centre for artistic freedom- referring back to the cultural richness of Paris in the 70’s and 80’s. The designer looked to the house archives of these ...
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Balmain[5]

BEARD at Somerset House: A Pogonophile Exhibition

This week Somerset House opens their latest exhibition in collaboration with photographer Brock Elbank. Focusing on the world’s ever rising obsession with facial hair, the exhibition consists of over 80 striking portraits of pogonophiles, a project that began five years ago when Elbank partnered with Jimmy Niggles in a bid to raise awareness of melanoma. Having just lost a friend to the ...
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Elbaz wins praise for ultra-wearable collection on Lanvin’s 125th birthday

Alber Elbaz ticked plenty of the right trend boxes with his latest Lanvin collection as he sent out a touch of the 70s, plenty of texture, fringing, long belts, capes and more. But it was more than just a rollcall of trends. For Lanvin’s 125th anniversary he gave us a collection that was pure Elbaz and that answered the autumn/winter clothing ...
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Mayan inspiration at Rick Owens

Paris: Californian Couturier Rick Owens knows how to drape and construct, he also knows exactly what he is doing.  This assured collection was called Sphinx – the same title as his menswear - but this was less provocative, and more autobiographical. With draped robes, sculpted wool felt silhouettes and an almost monastic clarity of line and shape Owens looked to ...
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