Mischievous Party Girls at Holly Fulton

London: Holly Fulton wanted to explore duality for her Autumn / Winter 2015 collection – the tough and the girly, night and day, decadent and demure, covered and revealed. Inspiration came from the obscure cult eighties TV series ‘Tales of the Unexpected’ and Cecil Beaton’s eccentric sisters Baba and Bibi Beaton. Fulton’s muses were a collective of party girls – ...
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HF

Trend Alert – Metal Grommets

Grommets are an important trim and detail for A/W 15/16, evolving from Pre-Fall 15. The metal eyelet makes a strong statement as a design detail or as a functional element in a variety of silhouettes, creating an edgy, youthful vibe on the catwalk.
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TA1

JW Anderson’s flashback to the 80s

London: J.W Anderson surprised us once again this season, the designer showcased an unexpected eighties energized collection, while playing “Goodbye Seventies” by the New Wave band Yaz. The collection seemed mix-and-matched from the charity shop yet all with a sophisticated edge. The silhouettes were deconstructed and exaggerated, prints distorted, lamé felt disturbing but executed in Anderson amenities it was stimulating ...
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JW Anderson

Lucas Nascimento brings a Tropical Flavour to Autumn/Winter

London: Against a stark and clear canvas, Lucas Nascimento presented a vivid and colourful collection of slim, effortless silhouettes. The designer appeared to have drawn on his native Brazil for inspiration – tropical florals and a minimal but rich colour palette of purple, russet red , olive and brown.  His show stopping spaghetti-strapped knit jumpsuits, whether floral jacquard or tinsel-flecked ...
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Lucas Nascimento

Gareth Pugh’s collection symbolises the War of Brittania

London: Gareth Pugh marked a decade of design by returning to London and staging a spectacle at the Victoria and Albert Museum.  Opening with a film, shot by long-time collaborator Ruth Hogben, he plunged the great hall into blackness and projected a lone female figure, bathed in eerie red light – symbolising both love and war.  Silently she crudely cut off her ...
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GP

A fairytale woodland scene at Markus Lupfer

London: Markus Lupfer presented his whimsical new autumn collection, and took you on a walk into a secret garden, albeit off Pall Mall, with models holding real fluffy baby bunny-rabbits, set amongst wild flowers and a fairytale woodland scene.  As is true with fairytales the sugary sweet mixed with darker undercurrents in luxe materials and opulent tones.  This was a girl dressed ...
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Markus Lupfer

Sexy, Glamourous Goth at Julien Macdonald

London: Black. Sexy. Slashed. Zipped. Unzipped. Julien Macdonald skipped daywear and game out after hours, for VIPs only, with seductive form fitting sheaths of silk and sequins to be worn with attitude, strappy Gina stilettos coiling up the ankles, long gloves and berry stained lips.  Lace motifs were outlined in texture, sequins and fur, silhouettes skillfully slashed to the navel and ...
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Julien MacDonald

Soft, elegant and regal at Emilia Wickstead

London: The chime from a music box was the cue for Emila Wickstead’s ladies to glide down the marble staircase and into view. Imagine a modern day ‘My Fair Lady’ making her debut in society with looks perfectly poised to take the new society belles from day to eveningwear. Demure ankle lengths, softly gathered bustles and cinched waists all gently ...
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Emilia Wickstead

Femme Rock at FELDER FELDER

London: 60’s feminist Uschi Obermaier was the inspiration behind Felder Felder’s rock-n-roll themed collection. Radical, powerful and an advocate of free love; “Half the time she was basically naked.” chuckled Daniela Felder, surmising; “It was all about the liberation of women”. And liberating it was- the models mirroring the muse in a series of transparent separates in sheer black organza- some ...
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felder

Masculine undertones infused with childhood memories at J. JS LEE

London: The Korean Designer J. JS LEE paid tribute to her childhood this season with a collection imbued with personal memories. ‘Different and eccentric, a playful sports enthusiast yet delicately feminine, slightly awkward and introverted whilst sensitive and soft natured with boyish, short unkempt hair’ describes Lee in her early years. Androgynous tailored essentials such as oversized coats, chic blazers ...
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J.JS LEE

Trend Alert – Cape Sleeves

Tailoring evolves this season with precise cuts and slits on sleeves that mimic cape silhouettes, updating tailored separates such as overcoats and blazers. This off-kilter approach transforms classic masculine shapes into sophisticated yet unexpected feminine staples.    
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Cape Sleeve

Trend Alert – Midnight Grunge

Head-to-toe black gathers stream as key colour direction at numerous shows, resulting in a moody goth-grunge mélange. Designers play with textures and layers to elevate tonal ensembles, utilising lace, embellishment and considered juxtapositions of soft and hard fabrics to add depth and dimension.  
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Midnight Grunge

Highlights from LFW A/W15: backstage beauty

Our beauty team went backstage at London Fashion Week to talk to the hairstylists, make-up artists and manicurists who created the looks. Here are our highlights so far. Eudon Choi Adam de Cruz’s blue and black dotted eyes were inspired by the circular prints from Eudon Choi’s collection. Over at hair Naoki using Bumble and bumble swept hair up into messy dishevelled twists ...
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anchor

Fashion week season – is innovation a dirty word?

It's interesting to think about the point at which a word become so overused in business terms its very essence loses meaning. "Innovation" is one that's all too easily thrown about during fashion week season especially. Is it innovative to live steam a show? To launch on a new social media channel? To showcase behind-the-scenes? It was once. It's probably ...
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anchor

80′s Revival at Milly

New York: Unlike the plethora of 70’s nostalgia we’ve seen of late – Michelle Smith took us on 80’s revival, referencing “postmodern graphic art and music”. Her inspirations came through loud and clear as the models stomped down the disco-esque catwalk, covered in neon scribble prints, crosshatch cloque cocoon jackets and vivid colour blocking. Smith played with technical fabrics, bonding melton ...
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milly