Stylesight continues its runway wrap, looking this week at the denim highlights from Milan.
From decorative foulard scarves to Glastonbury’s muddy fields, take a look at the best denim inspirations from the S/S 12 RTW shows.
Last week’s Bottega Veneta show, according to Tomas Maier, was about technology and handicrafts coming together. That puts it in close company with his men’s Spring collection, but where that one seemed to be rooted in the 1960s, this had its inspiration in the present. “It’s urban,” he said. Hence the baggy jeans “chalked” to look faded, which the designer matched with sharp blazers and fringed scarves. Maier also delved into colored denim, producing slouchy, diffused, multi-colored pants and hallucinatory pink tie-dye jeans.
Kitschy, girly and statement making is Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s recipe for success with their playful lower-priced line, D&G. Shortly after the show, the duo announced that they are folding the line into the main Dolce & Gabbana house, but they stuck to their formula for one last playful and colorful hurrah. As usual, the designers held tight to a single theme. This time it was foulards, the same idea mined for the Spring Men’s show, with bright and boisterous printed silk scarves paired with Western shirts and skimpy sundresses. Riotous color and denim were expertly layered into a cute, cohesive clash.
So deep is the influence of Summer’s festivals on fashion sensibility that DSquared2 duo Dean and Dan Caten took it and ran with it for their S/S 12 collection. The catwalk space became a festival tent, with a stage and camper van up at the top and the models stepping and rocking out onto the muddied catwalk. They walked with beer in hand and fringed bags over shoulders, beaten-up denim and studded jackets across their backs, and mini denim shorts, studded belts and 70s style Daisy Duke waistcoats. Others came through with American flags wound round them, wearing mud-stained jeans more than familiar at English festivals.
Last week’s show marked the relaunch of Roberto Cavalli’s second line, the kid sister to his signature vixen, as well as new ownership under Diesel chief Renzo Rosso’s Staff International. Anchored by youth and a carefree life, these were clothes “inspired by the sensuality of the music festivals that have become showcases of style and the new fashion catwalks”. There were, in rapid succession, skintight, low-slung, appliquéd jeans; fake snakeskin; silvered denims; girly hotpants; abstracted animal prints and trailing scarves for this buccaneer babe.