Junya Watanabe
By Anna Glassman

TAILOR HEARTED Paris: Menswear is never far from Junya Watanabe’s mind and the emphasis for Fall was even more apparent for its simplicity. Stripped …

Mar 03, 2012
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TAILOR HEARTED
Paris: Menswear is never far from Junya Watanabe’s mind and the emphasis for Fall was even more apparent for its simplicity. Stripped of wild patterns and embellishments, masculine tailoring took center stage demonstrating Watanabe’s supremacy with fitted suiting, twists on the trench coat and creative androgyny. Outerwear was central to the season, including cutaway overcoats, thick wool capes and sharp shouldered jackets, but the main idea was a merger of male and female elements. Coats became skirts with long swaths of fabric as a deconstructed tail, sheer chiffon peasant dresses featured structured twill shells, and corset tunics topped full trousers. Unusual crushed and burnout velvets also served as a signifier of softness, but several of the light silk dresses with Peter Pan collars were too much of a contrast to Watanabe’s masterful and newly simple tailoring. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Fitted / Long / Slim / Oversized / Boxy

Color: Tan / Grey / Electric purple / Rust / Crimson / Navy / Olive / Black / Pumpkin / Cobalt / Burgundy

Key Items: Trench coats / Mid-calf skirts / Fitted menswear coats / Sheath dresses / Cropped tunics / Slim suiting / Nipped-waist jackets / Turtlenecks / High-waist trousers / Cutaway coats / Silk robe dresses / Striped knit tops / Burnout velvet dresses

Materials: Twill / Silk / Crushed velvet / Cashmere / Wool / Burnout velvet / Chiffon / Lace

Print + Pattern: Checks / Florals / Stripes / Weave prints / Miniature hearts / Abstract argyle

Details + Trim: Sheer sleeves / Zippers / Pleating / Peter Pan collars / Self belts / Epaulettes / Draping / Asymmetry / Oversized buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Short leather boots / Buckled loafers / Sheer ankle socks / riding boots

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


Junya Watanabe
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