Gianfranco Ferré
By Anna Glassman

COLD SHOULDER Milan: Gianfranco Ferré is a house in transition and current designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron are choosing to look to the …

Sep 24, 2012
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COLD SHOULDER
Milan: Gianfranco Ferré is a house in transition and current designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron are choosing to look to the future with modern tailoring and sharp cuts inspired by the work of photographer Guy Bourdin. In stark black and white, their collection was graphic and streamlined, focusing on a handful of key items, including asymmetric vests, wrapped miniskirts, sheath dresses and wide leg trousers. Shoulders were accentuated with padding and peaked construction, while back details ran through nearly every look in the form of sliced cutouts or zippers. Although the aggressively angular silhouette worked for longer separates, the presentation as a whole seemed cold and lacked the humor and colorful saturation that makes Bourdin’s imagery so interesting.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Asymmetric / Fitted / Long & lean

Color: White / Black / Tan / Gold / Silver

Key Items: Fitted sheath dresses / Sharp vests / Wide-leg trousers / High-waisted shorts / Sheer blouses / Strapless minidresses / Column gowns

Materials: Raw silk / Snakeskin / Bonded silk / Chiffon / Mesh / Leather

Print + Pattern: Snakeskin

Details + Trim: Snakeskin panels / Pleating / Padding / Zippers / Jagged necklines / Peaked shoulders / Contrast piping / Back details / Exaggerated pockets

Accessories + Footwear: Futuristic sandals / Snakeskin belts / Cuff bracelets / Slim handle bags / Leaf appliqué belts / Wide corset belts

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


Gianfranco Ferré
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