On February 7, New York Fashion Week kicked off for Fall/Winter 13. This season brought with it some familiar denim favorites like DKNY, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Rachel Comey as well as new additions like the premium denim purveyor, J Brand. Here, the Stylesight denim team highlights the key collections to emerge from packed eight day schedule.
With its world renown denim brand firmly under its belt and a slew of successful runway collaborations with Christopher Kane making waves, L.A. denim purveyor set about showcasing their own muscle for F/W 13. While the brand quietly launched its apparel line a year ago, Fall 2013 saw the brand stage their debut Fashion Week presentation, a collection blending RTW pieces with a premium denim supplement. Creative director Donald Oliver ensured that the line did not stray too far from the brands strong denim foundations by including a strong selection of jean shapes. Texture and silhouette were core elements to the range with sleek leathers and boiled wools polishing up slouchy boyfriend pants and sharp biker pants. More traditional denim constructions appeared through 90s-inspired washed blacks and ergonomically pieced skinnies.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim showed a confident collection influenced by the what the show notes called the “racer generation.” Much like the menswear collection the womenswear line included plenty of patchwork details and biker references. Leathers and denims were fused together to form polished takes of the perennial biker pant with layered nylon mesh patches adding an authentic touch. Cargo pants were given a similar moto treatment but with leather legs fused at the knee. Other denim highlights included ergonomic cargo jeans, racer dresses and full mechanic jumpsuits adorned with motorcycle racing badges. “The badges I added to the denims were inspired by memorabilia that gangs collect along the road,” said Lim.
John le Carré’s 60s spy novel Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy was a touchstone for Rachel Comey this season. The idea of taking on multiple identities resulted in a host of characters and silhouettes: Prim and feminine looks were juxtaposed against slouchy and boyish shapes with high-waisted trouser fits, neat denim shirts and trucker inspired dresses all adding to the effect. Many looks appeared in pale délavé tones with chambray constructions lending a masculine feel to the items.
For Fall, DKNY turned to its iconic classics for inspiration. Karan revisited her 80s archive, and managed to bring it into 2013 and beyond. “I love the human body, I’m always inspired by all shapes and forms of the body, it’s so sculptural,” said Karan post show. The 80s inspiration was evident in the play of proportions, super-skinny jeans, sculpted body-con styles, oversized truckers and graphic leopard prints. Meanwhile, slick resin coatings and a modern color blocking techniques moved the styles into the future. One of the key pieces to showcase this modern approach was an architectural dress constructed from herringbone denims and bonded neoprene panels.