25-year-old Gosha Rubchinskiy has emerged straight out of a post-Soviet Russia and is starting an empire all his own.
Fashion designer Gosha Rubchinskiy is an indicator of how much Russian youth culture has evolved of late. Inspired by the fall of the Iron Curtain and Moscovian youth, he started his own streetwear label in 2008 called Aglec: “a personal take on the fetishistic uniformity of Moscow street gangs’ post-Perestroika suburb sportswear, mixed with political paraphernalia.” Going further than a label, his work is a totality, where orthodoxy meets black metal, sports and skateboard culture; a “gesamtkunstwerk” involving photography, design and artistic direction.
His latest F/W 12 collection was launched at Dover Street Market’s Exhibition Space in the Basement earlier this August, where he was showing photos from his project, Transfiguration, a book and video presentation about skaters and youth from the city. The label express the unrelayed voice of a youth that has re-appropriated Western culture in a very exclusive and peculiar Russian way. Among the collection of skate-inspired sweats and graphic printed tees were a number a standout denim pieces that blend irregular silhouettes with re-proportioned details and statement washes. The strict monochrome palette is highlighted with graphically pieced effects that combine solid hues with high contrast bleach splash panels. Each piece is further characterised by re-proportioned workwear pockets and skewed seaming, emphasizing the notable contrast between Rubchinskiy’s classic and contemporary approach.