Trend Alert – Cosmetic Nudes -

Barely there tones are inspired by the light powdery hues of a cosmetic palette. Soft and sophisticated, neutral shades look light and luxurious, perfect for the sheer and silky satins in diaphanous silhouettes for S/S 15.
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Eastern birds and exquisite detailing at Giambattista Valli -

Paris: Was this a swan song from Giambattista Valli for Spring/Summer 2015 or a beautiful Eastern bird singing a sweet tune? Valli is the master of finite detailing and this collection was the epitome of such craftsmanship – from simple sheath minidresses that were seemingly handcrafted with mother of pearl to emulate the branches and flowers of cherry blossoms, ...
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Sacai strikes a dynamic contrast between military and femininity -

Paris: The attention to detail that Chitose Abe of Sacai applies to each piece in her collection is incredible. This season, the designer merged a hard military look with soft, flirty ruffles producing movement and a dynamic aesthetic. Even the prints generated an interesting juxtaposition – masculine tartan and fair isle vs. feminine naïve florals and paisley. Guipure lace edged ...
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Modern angles at Akris -

Paris: Refined and still youthful, Albert Kriemler, creative director of Akris presented a covetable collection of luxurious pieces. Russian artist Kazimir Malevich’s abstract geometric works strongly influenced this season manifesting itself in the form of placed squares, rectangles and pentagons sophisticatedly rendered in tonal colour as the only adornment. Cropped a-line skirts and panel tops were updated with long sheer ...
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Tailored and utilitarian at Celine -

Paris: Pheobe Philo said about her inspiration for Spring Summer – "In a way, I was open to everything—no preconceived ideas, very little of me saying no." Philo was also apparently inspired by Kate Bush – "a woman who knows who she is". Consequently, this was about a collection that ran along the lines of the whims of need – ...
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Tyrolean meets rock ‘n’ roll at Givenchy -

Paris: Bleached brows and bustiers made for a sexy 'Tyrolean meets rock 'n' roll' look at Givenchy as Riccardo Tisci went hell for leather quite literally. Lacy overlays, lacing, studs and grommets were just a few of the elements that made up the intricately crafted pieces sent down the catwalk. There was little need for colour with a collection ...
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A light-hearted spirit at Chloe -

Paris: Clare Waight Keller, Creative Director at Chloe, sent out a very pretty, ‘boho' inspired collection for Spring/Summer. Perhaps it was a little reminiscent of the audacious spirit imbued by the founder Gaby Aghion or a nod to the early days of Chloe under Lagerfeld, but either way, this was a creative lineup with a carefree, light-hearted spirit. The focus was ...
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Trend Alert – Multi-Layering

Tiered ruffles and long-over-long silk layers become a new standout silhouette for dresses, with designers combining multiple and solid colours in lightweight silk for S/S 15.
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Single color and exaggerated proportions at Comme des Garçons -

Paris: Rei Kawakubo presented a collection of abstract, weird and wonderful creations for Spring/Summer. Bio forms – not dissimilar to an Ernesto Neto sculpture – were shown in layered pieces. Elsewhere elliptical splices formed 3-D segments that cocooned the model whilst also flashing a lot of leg. Vinyl was manipulated into folds, creases and ruffles – lending a sculptural ...
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Vivienne Westwood “pays homage to the children in our world” -

Paris: Vivienne Westwood’s collection called “End Ecocide” was to pay “homage to the children in our world and draw “inspiration from them through the ages” . There were all the trademarks one would expect  – corsetry, billowing gowns and political provocation, not least from the digital photo prints of impoverished children shown on silk tees and tote bags. Historical references ...
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Junya Watanabe plays with bold colour and circular piecing -

Paris: Like his mentor Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe is a designer who knows how to have fun with fashion – toying with conventional ideas of form and fit. Bold colours were used in Breton-striped sweaters, fine gauge knitwear, cropped and A-line patent leather skirts, and foulard hem skirts. Print was key to the collection and a range of abstract geometrics ...
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‘Élection de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015’ -

Paris: It’s not often the world’s fashion industry whoop, cheer and scream, but that’s exactly what happened at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final ready-to-wear fashion show – all turned out en masse to pay homage to one of the most celebrated designers of our time. Gaultier hosted a beauty pageant, complete with acts of his most famous work – Miss ...
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Modern and streamlined at Mugler -

Paris: David Koma, the Artistic Director at the helm of Mugler, presented his debut runway collection for Spring/Summer 2015.  Modern and streamlined to fit the sveltest of curves, this was a lineup that was both audacious and brave. Lengths were cut in mini proportions with daring cut-outs, all trimmed with metal bands while long skirts and full length sheath ...
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Yohji Yamamoto plays with sexiness and flowers -

Paris: Call it the Paris effect, but this season saw Yohji Yamamoto look to the boudoir for inspiration, with fine silk sheaths, pyjama shirting and dishevelled dressing – not withstanding, this time, Yohji felt it was time to reveal some skin. It may not have in Yamamoto’s usual style, but it felt fresh and relevant. The addition of a floral ...
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Soft and elegant androgyny at Haider Ackermann -

Paris: Haider Ackermann sent out a collection for Spring/Summer 2015 that ticked all the right boxes. True to his signature tailoring, beautifully cut trousers, jackets and coats were languidly draped on the body in fluid, soft light layers of sheer silks, crepes and satin – all bathed in a soft palette of cosmetic hues of nude, beige, powdery white, ...
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