Masculine Monk at Yohji Yamamoto

Paris: Models walked out to quiet and serene music creating an overall sense of peace at the Yohji Yamamoto show. Monk like wrapped dresses were draped against the body revealing Sak Yant tattoos at the neckline and face. Masculine tailoring was minimalist and understated with blazer, maxi skirt sets and oversized button-up shirts. Hip-hop high tops juxtaposed the feminine velvet ...
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Nautical military at Isabel Marant

Paris: For autumn/winter 15/16, Isabel Marant continues to dress the chic city woman in flirty mini skirts and dresses paired with more substantial sweaters and jackets. This collection carries an overall nautical and utility influence combining sailor shank button details and nautical stripes, with utility jackets, gold bouillon cord frogging, and epaulettes. Patterns are a mixture of ethnic influenced ikats ...
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La Discothèque at Balmain

Paris: Backstage at Balmain, Olivier Rousteing spoke about “what happened in January” – referring of course to the Charlie Hebdo shootings. With this in his mind, Rousting set out to celebrate Paris as a centre for artistic freedom- referring back to the cultural richness of Paris in the 70’s and 80’s. The designer looked to the house archives of these ...
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Mayan inspiration at Rick Owens

Paris: Californian Couturier Rick Owens knows how to drape and construct, he also knows exactly what he is doing.  This assured collection was called Sphinx – the same title as his menswear - but this was less provocative, and more autobiographical. With draped robes, sculpted wool felt silhouettes and an almost monastic clarity of line and shape Owens looked to ...
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Futuristic textiles for Christian Wijnants

Paris: Since launching his own label in 2003 Wijnants has won countless awards, including the International Woolmark Prize in 2013, but what is more impressive is his label is sold in over 100 boutiques and department stores worldwide. Inspired by the work of Irish photographer Jackie Nickerson’s Farm series he opened with abstract banana leaf motif monochromes printed, bonded and ...
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A Heritage Revival at Rochas

Paris: As a tribute to Rochas’ 90th birthday, Alessandro Dell’Acqua honoured the heritage of the brand, reviving and reworking the designs of the late Marcel Rochas. Dell’Acqua’s modern-day tribute referenced the 1934 Rochas’collection- dedicated to birds- inspiring ornithological prints and thirties silhouettes. Swallows patterned romantic silk dresses and featured as black velvet embroidery on an ice blue overcoat and a series ...
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Armani Wears the Trousers

Milan: With forty years experience under his belt, Giorgio Armani took a pragmatic approach to his fall collection; “Here we don’t have to enchant, we have to sell.” Over the years Armani has given women a chic uniform of impeccably tailored wardrobe staples. For fall, Armani redefined these classics: his signature lean and cropped jackets stood strong amongst a flurry of ...
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Dressed to Thrill at Lemaire

Paris: A new era dawns for design duo, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah- Linh Tran. With collaboration with Uniqlo announced, the brands aesthetic is about to grace a larger audience. “More dangerous, less melancholic” is how Lemaire described the vision for their future: as the collection unveiled, one could almost feel the danger dial being turned up a notch, confidence seeping through ...
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Purified and Simplified Sportswear at Cedric Charlier

Paris: This season Cedric Charlier went back to simplicity and presented a collection of refined sportswear staples in architectural shapes and eye-catching colours. The dress code was simplified thanks to the geometrical shapes and the precise technological fabrics – second skin knitted trousers came in double-faced neoprene materials and sported a coloured contrasting stripe that ended a few inches above the ...
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Opulence, Chinoiserie and a perfect blend of Utility at Dries Van Noten

Paris: Every season, Dries Van Noten never fails in keeping avid followers on their toes. Just when you think you have your wardrobe organized, then along comes another collection of to die-for-pieces. This exquisite presentation was opulence grounded in utility. It began with the fur trimmed gold brocade coat worn over a pair of oversized chinos  and then continued in the ...
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‘Destruction as a Creative force’ at Vionnet

Paris: ‘Destruction as a creative force,’ was the inspiration for the ‘regeneration’ at the house of Vionnet. The label, founded by Madeleine Vionnet, famed for its sleek, soft cut, and introducing the fluidity of bias cutting to fashion, is the designer that fashion designers have on a pedestal.  The drape, movement and signature fall of the fabric were all in ...
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Trend Alert – Pristine Pleats

Pleats evolve for A/W 15/16 as designers play with crisp knife and box pleats to add volume and movement into all apparel categories. Pleats in silk and chiffon materials are used as shoulder and neck detailing, underpinning the romantic mood of the season. They are constructed in thick wools and knitted materials to provide sculptural interest.
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Classic and very modern with bold graphics at Salvatore Ferragamo

Milan: Massimiliano Giornetti’s Autumn/Winter presentation for Salvatore Ferragamo brought a modern edge to the season with classic shapes in lean linear cuts that prevailed throughout this refreshing lineup. There are few closures showing up in general but Giornetti made a statement with his minimal application of 3 enlarged buttons placed on tailored jackets and coatdresses, wrapping around the body asymmetrically ...
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Leader of the pack at Marni

Milan: Consuelo Castiglioni’s Autumn/Winter collection, 'wildly' anticipated, was as strong as the female ‘warriors’ she sent out onto a catwalk – a red ochre covered concrete setting – raw at the edges – a lair perhaps! Texture was key to this lineup where Consuelo's ‘femmes’ were dressed in outfits that were powerfully impressive.  A raw beauty was determined by unfinished ...
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Roberto Cavalli’s New China Girl

Milan: Roberto Cavalli looked East this season to get his inspiration for his latest collection – iconic Chinese elements are seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship. Cavalli’s unexpected vision of the Great country was both sophisticated and modern. Ming vases inspired floral prints on dresses and skirts. Other traditional Chinese elements appeared throughout the lineup – coats, ...
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