Luxe Familiarité at Hermes

Paris: This season Hermes continued to do what it does best, taking classic ensembles and selective trends and elevating them to the next level with unexpected, but no doubt luxurious, materials. The classics were shown with 2SB and 6DB fine wool suits coupled with tweed topcoats and shearling-lined leather overcoats. There were cashmere turtlenecks and sweaters and impeccably tailored trousers. ...
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Relaxed Tailoring & Covetable Outerwear at Wooyoungmi

Paris: Tailoring and overwear took center stage at Wooyoungmi this season with inviting autumnal colours of berry reds, tobacco browns, inky blues and granular greys standing out against a sparse industrial backdrop. Slouched trousers and roomy blazers were styled with fine gauge v-neck sweaters and cardigans instead of shirts. Occasionally blazers were swapped with tailored outerwear options such as herringbone ...
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Trend Alert – Futuristic Quilting

Following on from the enduring success of the classic puffer jacket, quilted nylon constructions continue as a practical, modern update for outerwear items such as the parka, bomber or city coat. Paris designers focus on stitch patterns and constructions with a futuristic utility feel, pared back in a sophisticated palette of tinted neutrals.
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Trend Alert – The Tailored Cape

Capes and ponchos are gaining momentum on the Paris catwalks. A versatile layering piece for changeable urban winter indoors/outdoors climates, the silhouette has been made palatable by recent trends for sophisticated, oversized modern city coats, paving the ground for contemporary hybrid styles to find their place in designer collections.
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Urban survivors at Kenzo

Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s new collection was a mash-up of London’s punk culture and the outdoors theme that it has been popping up on the catwalks this season. A gorgeous palette of olive green and earthy tones was enlivened by bright oranges, silver and daring blues. Looks were layered in a clever way – anoraks over nylon trenches, ...
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Modern hunters at Cerruti 1881 Paris

Paris: Aldo Maria Camillo sent forth a selection of solid, if expected, wardrobe staples containing, sharp coats and precisely-cut suits. Softened lines and rounded shoulders gave silhouettes a cozy yet masculine appearance. The designer played with fabrics and textures – slim-cut coats were finished with coated felt materials and collage-like sweaters gave the collection a youthful vibe. The looks were ...
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Urban military at Kris Van Assche

Paris: Kris Van Assche approached the military theme and gave it an urban edge. Playful tailoring was updated with sport-inspired elements – lava lamps-like patch pockets and panels, elastic cuffs and rounded sleeves modernized tailored suits and outerwear. Van Assche presented the camouflage pattern in abstract shapes and oversized proportions – rollneck sweaters in off-beat colours of burgundy, bright green ...
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Twisted Tailoring at Comme des Garçons

Paris: While other designers play with traditional tailoring through the injection of active elements, Rei Kawakubo plays with shape and proportion to debunk all preconceived notions of conventional suiting. Starting with second-skin graffiti print leggings underneath bermuda suits, blazers were offset and tailored in intriguingly awkward places. These included 6DB and 3SB silhouettes with asymmetrical closures that created a twisting ...
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Trend Alert – Sartorial Deconstruction

Geometric colour-blocking continues to inspire menswear, and seems to be evolving into an art form. The way in which Paris designers reworked classic menswear items evokes ideas between cubism and dazzle camouflage's deconstruction of object silhouettes, but feels premium and tasteful through the sophisticated choice of colours.
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Modern Western at Kolor

Paris: A subtle folk flavour impregnated Junichi Abe’s latest outing. Timeless wardrobe staples were updated in Native American and blanket stripes motifs – a blanket coat had suede utility pockets patched on, while nomadic shawls were styled with matching knits in stripe and Navajo motifs. Playful tailored suits and sweatshirts came in blocked colours and materials. Vibrant pumpkin oranges and ...
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Unfussy fragility at Véronique Leroy

Paris: Véronique Leroy joked that her silhouettes for Pre-Fall were less A-line, more “Tour Eiffel”. With this reference in mind, Leroy seems to have assimilated the architecture of clothing keeping her shapes elongated and layered, with a plethora of signature honeycomb bordered knits, creating a mesh like structure not dissimilar with the aforementioned landmark. Matching oversized scarfs were wrapped and ...
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Trend Alert – Subtle Matching

Head-to-toe styling is subtly updated in Paris this season. Outerwear staples in windowpane checks, houndstooth or blanket stripes are matched with tailored trousers or jumpsuits, bringing a polished edge to coordinated looks, while printed suits and shirts are paired together, offering a playful alternative to formal tailoring.
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Trend Alert – Opulent Outdoors

Nature and the outdoors are one of the big inspirations in Milan this season, connecting with similar themes seen at Pitti Uomo. Fabrics display an artisanal opulence, with intricate, multicoloured knit and weave constructions blended, patched and layered into heavily textured, sophisticated country looks.
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Dynamic craftsmanship at Louis Vuitton

Paris: For his latest collection, Kim Jones paid tribute to British designer Christopher Nemeth, whose handmade clothes established the codes for the deconstruction trend in the Eighties. Jones carefully chose four original prints from Nemeth’s archives and splashed them as main motifs throughout the lineup. Hand-drawn rope-like patterns were exquisitely crafted onto outerwear, trousers and knits – shearling coats were ...
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Wonderland dreamers at Dries Van Noten

Paris: Another season, another captivating collection from the Belgian designer. Historical references and subtle Eastern elements blended together beautifully – overcoats and shirts were embellished with silver ornaments inspired by Southern China’s Miao people, while layers of quilted blazers over coats and apron-like kilts over trousers highlighted the cultural heritage of Van Noten’s homeland. Traditional coats and blazers were worn ...
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