Trend Alert – Pristine Pleats

Pleats evolve for A/W 15/16 as designers play with crisp knife and box pleats to add volume and movement into all apparel categories. Pleats in silk and chiffon materials are used as shoulder and neck detailing, underpinning the romantic mood of the season. They are constructed in thick wools and knitted materials to provide sculptural interest.
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Classic and very modern with bold graphics at Salvatore Ferragamo

Milan: Massimiliano Giornetti’s Autumn/Winter presentation for Salvatore Ferragamo brought a modern edge to the season with classic shapes in lean linear cuts that prevailed throughout this refreshing lineup. There are few closures showing up in general but Giornetti made a statement with his minimal application of 3 enlarged buttons placed on tailored jackets and coatdresses, wrapping around the body asymmetrically ...
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Leader of the pack at Marni

Milan: Consuelo Castiglioni’s Autumn/Winter collection, 'wildly' anticipated, was as strong as the female ‘warriors’ she sent out onto a catwalk – a red ochre covered concrete setting – raw at the edges – a lair perhaps! Texture was key to this lineup where Consuelo's ‘femmes’ were dressed in outfits that were powerfully impressive.  A raw beauty was determined by unfinished ...
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Roberto Cavalli’s New China Girl

Milan: Roberto Cavalli looked East this season to get his inspiration for his latest collection – iconic Chinese elements are seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship. Cavalli’s unexpected vision of the Great country was both sophisticated and modern. Ming vases inspired floral prints on dresses and skirts. Other traditional Chinese elements appeared throughout the lineup – coats, ...
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Intricate craftsmanship at Gabriele Colangelo

Milan: 'Paratactic levels' headed the show notes which in the designer's terms means 'the juxtaposition between material surfaces and the creation of unexpected matchings'. For the beautiful collection that Gabriele Colangelo sent out for Autumn Winter he said –" our collection has two directions, the line of the garments and the other is the choice of the fabrics". The development of ...
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A breath of fresh air and modern luxury at Jil Sander

Milan: True to house codes, the Autumn / Winter collection at Jil Sander did not disappoint. It was refreshing to view a cohesive collection, from beginning to the closure from Rodolfo Paglialunga – this his second season. The minimalist approach ran throughout with a streamlined and modern ease. The palette was as modern as the graphic stripes and grids that and ...
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An Aviation Adventure at Iceberg

Milan: Alexis Martial’s collection for Iceberg felt particularly streamlined this season - his inspiration being the design of aeroplanes and all things aviation. Clean-cut lines and sharp yet sexy silhouettes glided down the runway, with an air of seventies explorer to them. Formfitting leather belts cinched the waists of pencil skirts and high waited trousers, worn with colour-block intarsia knitted sweaters ...
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Sass and Glamour at Blumarine

Milan: Sass and glamour were on the menu for the Blumarine girl for fall. So long to the days of Anna Molinari’s  romantic frills and girly silhouettes: a collection full of fur and sparkle, inspired by Warhol muse Baby Jane Holze,  that gave a nod to an artisanal rebellion. Hemlines on party dresses were decidedly risqué and came in draped lurex, ...
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Sexy ladies and the social media at Versace

Milan:  Donatella Versace wanted to connect the fast and dynamic digital world with the codes of the Italian house. She called her new collection ‘# Greek’ – “this is my Versace for today and forever. #GREEK symbolizes everything: the traditions of craftsmanship and the Greek key, the emoji of the future” – said the designer in the show notes. Bright ...
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A youthful and modern take on the Seventies at Bottega Veneta

Milan: Thomas Maier presented his Autumn/Winter collection for Bottega Veneta today and it was no less a lineup of Seventies silhouettes but with the added contemporary functionality that he has brought to the house. Backstage, he explained the approach to this youthful collection – “This is not about meticulous dressing, but taking a bit of a bolder approach when it comes to ...
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American sportswear fused with Italian tradition at No.21

Milan: Alessandro Dell’Acqua has always been a master of contrast and this season was no exception - he mastered it to perfection. American sportswear meets Italian tradition was the idea behind this seasons collection. ‘The garments resemble those you can see in the film ‘Senso’ by the Italian director Luchino Visconit’ Dell’Acqua mentioned in a preview. The first looks showcased ...
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Controlled eccentric maximalism at Etro

Milan: Ornate wallpapers, rich tapestries and luxurious upholstery textiles provided a creative playground for designer Veronica Etro. She has always been an expert in arranging eclectic and characteristic ensembles. This season she took us in to the world of interiors tailored in a long and lean 70’s silhouette. A tonal colour palette of earthy tones such as tobacco, coffee, camel ...
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Fun streetwear at Moschino

Milan:  Once again, Jeremy Scott brought the humorous touch to Milan Fashion Week with a fun and irreverent collection that featured Eighties hip-hop-inspired staples and silhouettes, Looney Tunes motifs and a dose of street art. The show started off with a plethora of colourful padded coats, dresses and dungarees, giving streetwear staples a glossy and sexy update. Next came those ...
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Retro-Futurism at Just Cavalli

Milan: There was a retro-futuristic feel to Roberto Cavalli’s, Just Cavalli collection. The silhouettes – reminiscent of the sixties and seventies – had a pure and functional design; slim A-line mini-dresses were zipped up to the collar in a Bauhaus mash up of print and textures whilst cropped kick flare trousers felt modern with a throwback palette of mustard brown ...
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Sixties silhouettes and a dose of sugary pastels at Prada

Milan: Miuccia Prada has everyone ‘thinking’ what was Miuccia ‘thinking when she designed her latest collection: "I was thinking what women like: colours, bows, decorations,” Prada said backstage. But it was more than that. Her Autumn/Winter collection was like no other and a complete contrast to her previous presentation. She took retro silhouettes from the sixties and fused her own version ...
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