Sonia Rykiel returns to its roots with a new creative director at the helm -

Paris: This season marks Julie de Libran's first at the helm of Sonia Rykiel. With prior experience at Prada and Louis Vuitton under the direction of Marc Jacobs she is well prepared to take the French fashion house into its next phase. For her debut, de Libran looked back to Rykiel's inception, incorporating the signature stripe and of course, knitwear. ...
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A relaxed sensuality at Stella McCartney -

Paris: Speaking backstage after the showing of her Spring/Summer collection, Stella McCartney said, “It was celebrating the softness of a woman, and her fragility....the collection is really about the softer side" – and it was. Diaphanous layers of circular cut silk billowed and flowed in breezy silk layers – cool enough for warm summer days. The idea of comfort ...
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Hedi Slimane takes us to the Sunset Strip at Saint Laurent -

Paris: For his latest collection, Hedi Slimane continued to express his enthusiasm for L.A youth culture and this season was no exception. The bold aesthetic was fit for cutting edge rock clubs on the Sunset Strip. There were a total of fifty-five outfits each featuring coordinated separates. Standouts included the covetable, cropped leather jackets which came in a plethora of ...
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Trend Alert – Cosmetic Nudes -

Barely there tones are inspired by the light powdery hues of a cosmetic palette. Soft and sophisticated, neutral shades look light and luxurious, perfect for the sheer and silky satins in diaphanous silhouettes for S/S 15.
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Eastern birds and exquisite detailing at Giambattista Valli -

Paris: Was this a swan song from Giambattista Valli for Spring/Summer 2015 or a beautiful Eastern bird singing a sweet tune? Valli is the master of finite detailing and this collection was the epitome of such craftsmanship – from simple sheath minidresses that were seemingly handcrafted with mother of pearl to emulate the branches and flowers of cherry blossoms, ...
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Sacai strikes a dynamic contrast between military and femininity -

Paris: The attention to detail that Chitose Abe of Sacai applies to each piece in her collection is incredible. This season, the designer merged a hard military look with soft, flirty ruffles producing movement and a dynamic aesthetic. Even the prints generated an interesting juxtaposition – masculine tartan and fair isle vs. feminine naïve florals and paisley. Guipure lace edged ...
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Modern angles at Akris -

Paris: Refined and still youthful, Albert Kriemler, creative director of Akris presented a covetable collection of luxurious pieces. Russian artist Kazimir Malevich’s abstract geometric works strongly influenced this season manifesting itself in the form of placed squares, rectangles and pentagons sophisticatedly rendered in tonal colour as the only adornment. Cropped a-line skirts and panel tops were updated with long sheer ...
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Tailored and utilitarian at Celine -

Paris: Pheobe Philo said about her inspiration for Spring Summer – "In a way, I was open to everything—no preconceived ideas, very little of me saying no." Philo was also apparently inspired by Kate Bush – "a woman who knows who she is". Consequently, this was about a collection that ran along the lines of the whims of need – ...
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Tyrolean meets rock ‘n’ roll at Givenchy -

Paris: Bleached brows and bustiers made for a sexy 'Tyrolean meets rock 'n' roll' look at Givenchy as Riccardo Tisci went hell for leather quite literally. Lacy overlays, lacing, studs and grommets were just a few of the elements that made up the intricately crafted pieces sent down the catwalk. There was little need for colour with a collection ...
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A light-hearted spirit at Chloe -

Paris: Clare Waight Keller, Creative Director at Chloe, sent out a very pretty, ‘boho' inspired collection for Spring/Summer. Perhaps it was a little reminiscent of the audacious spirit imbued by the founder Gaby Aghion or a nod to the early days of Chloe under Lagerfeld, but either way, this was a creative lineup with a carefree, light-hearted spirit. The focus was ...
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Trend Alert – Multi-Layering

Tiered ruffles and long-over-long silk layers become a new standout silhouette for dresses, with designers combining multiple and solid colours in lightweight silk for S/S 15.
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Single color and exaggerated proportions at Comme des Garçons -

Paris: Rei Kawakubo presented a collection of abstract, weird and wonderful creations for Spring/Summer. Bio forms – not dissimilar to an Ernesto Neto sculpture – were shown in layered pieces. Elsewhere elliptical splices formed 3-D segments that cocooned the model whilst also flashing a lot of leg. Vinyl was manipulated into folds, creases and ruffles – lending a sculptural ...
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Vivienne Westwood “pays homage to the children in our world” -

Paris: Vivienne Westwood’s collection called “End Ecocide” was to pay “homage to the children in our world and draw “inspiration from them through the ages” . There were all the trademarks one would expect  – corsetry, billowing gowns and political provocation, not least from the digital photo prints of impoverished children shown on silk tees and tote bags. Historical references ...
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Junya Watanabe plays with bold colour and circular piecing -

Paris: Like his mentor Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe is a designer who knows how to have fun with fashion – toying with conventional ideas of form and fit. Bold colours were used in Breton-striped sweaters, fine gauge knitwear, cropped and A-line patent leather skirts, and foulard hem skirts. Print was key to the collection and a range of abstract geometrics ...
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‘Élection de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015’ -

Paris: It’s not often the world’s fashion industry whoop, cheer and scream, but that’s exactly what happened at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final ready-to-wear fashion show – all turned out en masse to pay homage to one of the most celebrated designers of our time. Gaultier hosted a beauty pageant, complete with acts of his most famous work – Miss ...
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