A Heritage Revival at Rochas

Paris: As a tribute to Rochas’ 90th birthday, Alessandro Dell’Acqua honoured the heritage of the brand, reviving and reworking the designs of the late Marcel Rochas. Dell’Acqua’s modern-day tribute referenced the 1934 Rochas’collection- dedicated to birds- inspiring ornithological prints and thirties silhouettes. Swallows patterned romantic silk dresses and featured as black velvet embroidery on an ice blue overcoat and a series ...
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Armani Wears the Trousers

Milan: With forty years experience under his belt, Giorgio Armani took a pragmatic approach to his fall collection; “Here we don’t have to enchant, we have to sell.” Over the years Armani has given women a chic uniform of impeccably tailored wardrobe staples. For fall, Armani redefined these classics: his signature lean and cropped jackets stood strong amongst a flurry of ...
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Dressed to Thrill at Lemaire

Paris: A new era dawns for design duo, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah- Linh Tran. With collaboration with Uniqlo announced, the brands aesthetic is about to grace a larger audience. “More dangerous, less melancholic” is how Lemaire described the vision for their future: as the collection unveiled, one could almost feel the danger dial being turned up a notch, confidence seeping through ...
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Purified and Simplified Sportswear at Cedric Charlier

Paris: This season Cedric Charlier went back to simplicity and presented a collection of refined sportswear staples in architectural shapes and eye-catching colours. The dress code was simplified thanks to the geometrical shapes and the precise technological fabrics – second skin knitted trousers came in double-faced neoprene materials and sported a coloured contrasting stripe that ended a few inches above the ...
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Opulence, Chinoiserie and a perfect blend of Utility at Dries Van Noten

Paris: Every season, Dries Van Noten never fails in keeping avid followers on their toes. Just when you think you have your wardrobe organized, then along comes another collection of to die-for-pieces. This exquisite presentation was opulence grounded in utility. It began with the fur trimmed gold brocade coat worn over a pair of oversized chinos  and then continued in the ...
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‘Destruction as a Creative force’ at Vionnet

Paris: ‘Destruction as a creative force,’ was the inspiration for the ‘regeneration’ at the house of Vionnet. The label, founded by Madeleine Vionnet, famed for its sleek, soft cut, and introducing the fluidity of bias cutting to fashion, is the designer that fashion designers have on a pedestal.  The drape, movement and signature fall of the fabric were all in ...
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Trend Alert – Pristine Pleats

Pleats evolve for A/W 15/16 as designers play with crisp knife and box pleats to add volume and movement into all apparel categories. Pleats in silk and chiffon materials are used as shoulder and neck detailing, underpinning the romantic mood of the season. They are constructed in thick wools and knitted materials to provide sculptural interest.
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Classic and very modern with bold graphics at Salvatore Ferragamo

Milan: Massimiliano Giornetti’s Autumn/Winter presentation for Salvatore Ferragamo brought a modern edge to the season with classic shapes in lean linear cuts that prevailed throughout this refreshing lineup. There are few closures showing up in general but Giornetti made a statement with his minimal application of 3 enlarged buttons placed on tailored jackets and coatdresses, wrapping around the body asymmetrically ...
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Leader of the pack at Marni

Milan: Consuelo Castiglioni’s Autumn/Winter collection, 'wildly' anticipated, was as strong as the female ‘warriors’ she sent out onto a catwalk – a red ochre covered concrete setting – raw at the edges – a lair perhaps! Texture was key to this lineup where Consuelo's ‘femmes’ were dressed in outfits that were powerfully impressive.  A raw beauty was determined by unfinished ...
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Roberto Cavalli’s New China Girl

Milan: Roberto Cavalli looked East this season to get his inspiration for his latest collection – iconic Chinese elements are seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship. Cavalli’s unexpected vision of the Great country was both sophisticated and modern. Ming vases inspired floral prints on dresses and skirts. Other traditional Chinese elements appeared throughout the lineup – coats, ...
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Intricate craftsmanship at Gabriele Colangelo

Milan: 'Paratactic levels' headed the show notes which in the designer's terms means 'the juxtaposition between material surfaces and the creation of unexpected matchings'. For the beautiful collection that Gabriele Colangelo sent out for Autumn Winter he said –" our collection has two directions, the line of the garments and the other is the choice of the fabrics". The development of ...
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A breath of fresh air and modern luxury at Jil Sander

Milan: True to house codes, the Autumn / Winter collection at Jil Sander did not disappoint. It was refreshing to view a cohesive collection, from beginning to the closure from Rodolfo Paglialunga – this his second season. The minimalist approach ran throughout with a streamlined and modern ease. The palette was as modern as the graphic stripes and grids that and ...
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An Aviation Adventure at Iceberg

Milan: Alexis Martial’s collection for Iceberg felt particularly streamlined this season - his inspiration being the design of aeroplanes and all things aviation. Clean-cut lines and sharp yet sexy silhouettes glided down the runway, with an air of seventies explorer to them. Formfitting leather belts cinched the waists of pencil skirts and high waited trousers, worn with colour-block intarsia knitted sweaters ...
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Sass and Glamour at Blumarine

Milan: Sass and glamour were on the menu for the Blumarine girl for fall. So long to the days of Anna Molinari’s  romantic frills and girly silhouettes: a collection full of fur and sparkle, inspired by Warhol muse Baby Jane Holze,  that gave a nod to an artisanal rebellion. Hemlines on party dresses were decidedly risqué and came in draped lurex, ...
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Sexy ladies and the social media at Versace

Milan:  Donatella Versace wanted to connect the fast and dynamic digital world with the codes of the Italian house. She called her new collection ‘# Greek’ – “this is my Versace for today and forever. #GREEK symbolizes everything: the traditions of craftsmanship and the Greek key, the emoji of the future” – said the designer in the show notes. Bright ...
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