Raw and Serene at Damir Doma

Paris: Serenity and balance dawned in Damir Doma’s latest Pre-Fall offering. The designer’s work seemed harmoniously linked with his Men’s collection, confessing; “The Women’s was born from the Men’s, it’s about finding that balance.” Doma seemed to have mastered this balance – his collection offered rustic and refined pieces with an androgynous, timeless identity. Chalk-ike pinstripes and fringed salvage finishes were ...
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“The Uniform of Dressing” at Donna Karan

New York: Donna Karan, one of our most ubiquitous designers, drew upon her philosophy of ‘limitless flexibility’ and the seven easy pieces that form the basis for every woman’s wardrobe presenting a Pre-Fall collection ‘for a woman to personalize as desired’. Her collection was named ”The Uniform of Dressing” and as the show notes stated “a uniform soft as it ...
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Stella’s Urban Treasures

London: “It's about looking at those staples, the pieces we all turn to as women, but I want more out of them, I want to say something with my clothes.” explained McCartney. She did just that: breathing new life into a wardrobe of essentials: ribbed turtlenecks with a scatter of delicate brass buttons, elegant coats cut in modern lines, updated with ...
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Stella Mc Cartney

Katrantzou’s Twist on a Classic

London: For her first ever Pre collection, Katrantzou paid homage to British heritage textiles: “It’s looking at the most popular tessellations that you find in fabric — the paisley, the houndstooth, the check,” said the designer. Never without a twist, each received an injection of Katrantzou’s signature explorative handwriting – paisley motifs were constructed from a pictorial playground of typewriter ...
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Parisian Rock ‘n’ Roll at Saint Laurent

Paris: This season Heidi Slimane put a Parisian spin on his signature indie rock 'n' roll look with all black ensembles of super skinny pants and tight turtlenecks topped off by berets. Slimane favourites such as animal print came in the form of leopard print intarsia sweaters, zebra printed fur coats, and broad-shouldered monochrome leopard blazers. His nautical stripes were ...
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Trend Alert – Layered Outerwear

Cosy layering becomes a key theme for menswear this season on the Paris catwalks. Long coat silhouettes in different tones and patterns combine to expand this smart yet contemporary look. Casual and tailored styles overlap to introduce an effortless utilitarian twist to formal styling.
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Old Seafarers at Umit Benan

Paris: Umit Benan took to the sea for A/W 15/16 sending working seafarers down the catwalk with fishing rods and buckets in hand. Rubberized outerwear, protective parkas, wool overcoats and padded bomber jackets protected Benan’s fisherman against the elements. Both leather and knit jogger pants had a more utilitarian feel in roomier silhouettes and paired with collaged robe cardigans and ...
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Trend Alert – Artisanal Coat

The artisanal coat emerges as one of the most directional outerwear trends in Paris. Eye-catching graffiti-style patterns and abstract brush strokes lend an arty twist to formal lab- and top-coat shapes. Delicate embroidery and artisanal collages elevate traditional silhouettes, highlighting the importance of craftsmanship in contemporary menswear.
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Relaxed luxury at Lanvin

Paris: Military and Seventies rock ‘n’ roll references co-mingled harmoniously throughout Lucas Ossendrijver’s new collection for the Parisian label. Pared-back military uniforms opened the show – jackets with flat pockets and tailored joggers were presented in dove grey mélange fabrics or Prince of Wales checks. A silhouette of generous proportions and feminine-inspired elements dominated throughout the lineup – sculptural coats ...
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Techno sartorial at Dior Homme

Paris: Kris Van Assche re-imagined black-tie dressing putting a modern, cheeky twist. Precise tailoring blended with the right dose of sport – tuxedos and tailcoats were styled with baseball caps, sneakers and badges and flower pins. Starting with an array of evening suits, the designer introduced urban elements as models strutted down the catwalk – raw denim jackets and knits ...
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Luxe Familiarité at Hermes

Paris: This season Hermes continued to do what it does best, taking classic ensembles and selective trends and elevating them to the next level with unexpected, but no doubt luxurious, materials. The classics were shown with 2SB and 6DB fine wool suits coupled with tweed topcoats and shearling-lined leather overcoats. There were cashmere turtlenecks and sweaters and impeccably tailored trousers. ...
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Relaxed Tailoring & Covetable Outerwear at Wooyoungmi

Paris: Tailoring and overwear took center stage at Wooyoungmi this season with inviting autumnal colours of berry reds, tobacco browns, inky blues and granular greys standing out against a sparse industrial backdrop. Slouched trousers and roomy blazers were styled with fine gauge v-neck sweaters and cardigans instead of shirts. Occasionally blazers were swapped with tailored outerwear options such as herringbone ...
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Trend Alert – Futuristic Quilting

Following on from the enduring success of the classic puffer jacket, quilted nylon constructions continue as a practical, modern update for outerwear items such as the parka, bomber or city coat. Paris designers focus on stitch patterns and constructions with a futuristic utility feel, pared back in a sophisticated palette of tinted neutrals.
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Trend Alert – The Tailored Cape

Capes and ponchos are gaining momentum on the Paris catwalks. A versatile layering piece for changeable urban winter indoors/outdoors climates, the silhouette has been made palatable by recent trends for sophisticated, oversized modern city coats, paving the ground for contemporary hybrid styles to find their place in designer collections.
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Urban survivors at Kenzo

Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s new collection was a mash-up of London’s punk culture and the outdoors theme that it has been popping up on the catwalks this season. A gorgeous palette of olive green and earthy tones was enlivened by bright oranges, silver and daring blues. Looks were layered in a clever way – anoraks over nylon trenches, ...
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