Chic and Glossy Seventies at Les Copains

Milan: Stefania Bandiera gave her own interpretation of the Seventies with a super feminine collection inspired by icons Bianca Jagger and Ursula Andress. Long silhouettes, trapeze shapes and an array of chandelier earrings and brooches defined the elegant and feminine mood of the lineup. There were plenty of flared trousers paired with tunic tops and cosily shaped knits. Bandiera paid ...
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Geometric precision cuts to the extreme at Fendi

Milan: Karl Lagerfeld took the idea of protection and melded this with pure geometry, volumes, linear structures and a distinct angular adaptation via pieced panels. It was as if Lagerfeld had taken a piece of square paper and applied architectural lines and geometrical cuts and molded them around a silhouette adding plush volumes as a finale. The effect was striking. The colour splicing ...
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Sleek tailoring and rock ‘n’ roll attitude at Costume National

Milan: Ennio Capasa called his collection “Reset” as he mentioned how he wanted a fresh start for this season – ‘the reset is a desire for me in this moment to look at my past work in a new way’ – stated the designer backstage. And so he did. Masculine sharp tailoring, a dark palette of mostly black and a ...
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Super Sicilian Bling at Fausto Puglisi

Milan: Fausto Puglisi continued to exercise his rebellious and ornamented aesthetic this season: consistently pushing the boundaries of taste - in a good way- his customers have come to expect a brazen, over the top mix of punk references, electric colour blocking and pretty serious amounts of bling. He did not disappoint – heavy gold chains smothered straps and adorned waistbands, ...
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Wrap-up, it’s cold out there! at Max Mara

Milan: ‘Tis the season for keeping toasty and warm and what other brand other than Max Mara could send out a collection of craveworthy, cozy wrap yourself-up in coats. It would appear that menswear materials and sartorial cuts were high on the list for the Max Mara design team. Known for  luxurious materials, traditional  fabrics such as tweed, heringbone, Prince of ...
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A Day-to-Day Fairytale at Luisa Beccaria

Milan: “The Pursuit of Love: a Tale of Contradictions for Modern Cinderella’s” was the entitlement for Luisa Beccaria’s show – a reference to the British eccentric - Nancy Mitford – and her most famous novel. For this modern day fairy-tale, Beccaria played with these contradictions, blending gauzy dresses with tailored coats and roomy trousers in more masculine fabrics such as ...
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Fairytale Femininity at Alberta Ferretti

Milan: Once upon a time Alberta Ferretti presented a romantic fairytale as models walked on a snow-covered woodlands-like area. The backdrop made it perfect for a folkloric-meets-regal-meets-romance collection – gorgeous white lace dresses and rich velvet gowns covered in gilded metals stood out while long crochet cardigans and fur-trimmed coats brought some mystery and sophistication to the woodlands. Ferretti talked ...
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Himalayan culture meets European traditions at Stella Jean

Milan: Another colourful and eye-catching collection from the Roman-Haitian designer. Himalayan-inspired motifs and embroideries updated past seasons African-influenced prints. Masculine tailored garments such as glen-check wool coats and jackets were emphasized by Maharajah-like embroidery and multi-coloured tassels. A long and fluid silhouette was achieved through oversized floor-sweeping coats and floating ultra-long silk dresses while volumes were increased via inflated midi-skirts ...
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Turn of the Century Romanticism at Gucci

Milan: Perhaps one of the Autumn/Winter season’s most anticipated shows was presented today; at the helm, the brand’s new Creative Director, Alessandro Michele. There was none of the provocative allure that might have been expected, instead, a meticulously designed lineup with a distinct turn of the century feel. Victorian styled long chemise dresses, mid-calf pleated skirts and botanical florals printed ...
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Trend Alert – 1960s Psychedelia

1960s pop psychedelia hits the catwalk with hypnotic swirls and fluid abstract forms, moving on last season's retro floral trend. Prints are amplified to oversized proportions and adorn head-to-toe looks for graphic impact. Unexpected colour combinations feel new set against undulating black and white.
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Pattern, Patchwork and Print for Burberry

London: Burberry’s Autumn/Winter collection opened to a live performance from Clare Maguire singing “Will you love me tomorrow” – the title so apt! There was not one piece in this lineup that one would not love today! Christopher Bailey said “ It started with the idea of folk art and craftsmanship – and people who learn to do things with their ...
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Decadent Constraint at Osman

London: A stripped back colour palette of head-to-toe white, red and black allowed Osman Yousefzada to hone his creative energy on texture, proportion and fabric. The models glided down the colossal hallway of the Tate Britain in a mix of fluid and architectural silhouettes. Cut outs added a modern edge to matching separates whilst more languid shapes such as flowerpot flares ...
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A Night Out with Issa

London: For his first season at Issa, Jamie O’Hare lent a dark and rock-n’-roll mood to the labels traditionally more feminine and flirty aesthetic. O’Hare said he wanted to “..Nod to the confidence and sensuality of the Issa woman.” – he achieved this with a line up of commercial and sexy pieces; slinky maxi dresses – necklines slashed and thigh high ...
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A Nomadic Winter at Amanda Wakeley

London: For Autumn Winter, Amanda Wakeley drew influence from the Antarctic suburbs of Mongolia- “ I was inspired by the textural layering of the Nomadic tribespeople and the prevalence of extreme light and dark in the region.” This translated into a gorgeously tactile and textured collection- luxurious cashmere brushed and felted into ribbed merino wools, draped around the body asymmetrically creating ...
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Graphic, geometric, crafted and futuristic at Peter Pilotto

London: Crown Princes of Print, and current recipients of the Vogue Fashion Fund – Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos – were in a playful mood with colour cleverness as a game of snakes and ladders led their board game inspiration in this collection. With lace appliqué, embroidery and bonded velvet, their prowess in modern fabric innovation combined with love ...
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