Trend Alert – Layered Outerwear

Cosy layering becomes a key theme for menswear this season on the Paris catwalks. Long coat silhouettes in different tones and patterns combine to expand this smart yet contemporary look. Casual and tailored styles overlap to introduce an effortless utilitarian twist to formal styling.
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Old Seafarers at Umit Benan

Paris: Umit Benan took to the sea for A/W 15/16 sending working seafarers down the catwalk with fishing rods and buckets in hand. Rubberized outerwear, protective parkas, wool overcoats and padded bomber jackets protected Benan’s fisherman against the elements. Both leather and knit jogger pants had a more utilitarian feel in roomier silhouettes and paired with collaged robe cardigans and ...
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Trend Alert – Artisanal Coat

The artisanal coat emerges as one of the most directional outerwear trends in Paris. Eye-catching graffiti-style patterns and abstract brush strokes lend an arty twist to formal lab- and top-coat shapes. Delicate embroidery and artisanal collages elevate traditional silhouettes, highlighting the importance of craftsmanship in contemporary menswear.
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Relaxed luxury at Lanvin

Paris: Military and Seventies rock ‘n’ roll references co-mingled harmoniously throughout Lucas Ossendrijver’s new collection for the Parisian label. Pared-back military uniforms opened the show – jackets with flat pockets and tailored joggers were presented in dove grey mélange fabrics or Prince of Wales checks. A silhouette of generous proportions and feminine-inspired elements dominated throughout the lineup – sculptural coats ...
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Techno sartorial at Dior Homme

Paris: Kris Van Assche re-imagined black-tie dressing putting a modern, cheeky twist. Precise tailoring blended with the right dose of sport – tuxedos and tailcoats were styled with baseball caps, sneakers and badges and flower pins. Starting with an array of evening suits, the designer introduced urban elements as models strutted down the catwalk – raw denim jackets and knits ...
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Luxe Familiarité at Hermes

Paris: This season Hermes continued to do what it does best, taking classic ensembles and selective trends and elevating them to the next level with unexpected, but no doubt luxurious, materials. The classics were shown with 2SB and 6DB fine wool suits coupled with tweed topcoats and shearling-lined leather overcoats. There were cashmere turtlenecks and sweaters and impeccably tailored trousers. ...
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Relaxed Tailoring & Covetable Outerwear at Wooyoungmi

Paris: Tailoring and overwear took center stage at Wooyoungmi this season with inviting autumnal colours of berry reds, tobacco browns, inky blues and granular greys standing out against a sparse industrial backdrop. Slouched trousers and roomy blazers were styled with fine gauge v-neck sweaters and cardigans instead of shirts. Occasionally blazers were swapped with tailored outerwear options such as herringbone ...
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Trend Alert – Futuristic Quilting

Following on from the enduring success of the classic puffer jacket, quilted nylon constructions continue as a practical, modern update for outerwear items such as the parka, bomber or city coat. Paris designers focus on stitch patterns and constructions with a futuristic utility feel, pared back in a sophisticated palette of tinted neutrals.
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Trend Alert – The Tailored Cape

Capes and ponchos are gaining momentum on the Paris catwalks. A versatile layering piece for changeable urban winter indoors/outdoors climates, the silhouette has been made palatable by recent trends for sophisticated, oversized modern city coats, paving the ground for contemporary hybrid styles to find their place in designer collections.
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Urban survivors at Kenzo

Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s new collection was a mash-up of London’s punk culture and the outdoors theme that it has been popping up on the catwalks this season. A gorgeous palette of olive green and earthy tones was enlivened by bright oranges, silver and daring blues. Looks were layered in a clever way – anoraks over nylon trenches, ...
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Modern hunters at Cerruti 1881 Paris

Paris: Aldo Maria Camillo sent forth a selection of solid, if expected, wardrobe staples containing, sharp coats and precisely-cut suits. Softened lines and rounded shoulders gave silhouettes a cozy yet masculine appearance. The designer played with fabrics and textures – slim-cut coats were finished with coated felt materials and collage-like sweaters gave the collection a youthful vibe. The looks were ...
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Urban military at Kris Van Assche

Paris: Kris Van Assche approached the military theme and gave it an urban edge. Playful tailoring was updated with sport-inspired elements – lava lamps-like patch pockets and panels, elastic cuffs and rounded sleeves modernized tailored suits and outerwear. Van Assche presented the camouflage pattern in abstract shapes and oversized proportions – rollneck sweaters in off-beat colours of burgundy, bright green ...
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Twisted Tailoring at Comme des Garçons

Paris: While other designers play with traditional tailoring through the injection of active elements, Rei Kawakubo plays with shape and proportion to debunk all preconceived notions of conventional suiting. Starting with second-skin graffiti print leggings underneath bermuda suits, blazers were offset and tailored in intriguingly awkward places. These included 6DB and 3SB silhouettes with asymmetrical closures that created a twisting ...
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Trend Alert – Sartorial Deconstruction

Geometric colour-blocking continues to inspire menswear, and seems to be evolving into an art form. The way in which Paris designers reworked classic menswear items evokes ideas between cubism and dazzle camouflage's deconstruction of object silhouettes, but feels premium and tasteful through the sophisticated choice of colours.
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Modern Western at Kolor

Paris: A subtle folk flavour impregnated Junichi Abe’s latest outing. Timeless wardrobe staples were updated in Native American and blanket stripes motifs – a blanket coat had suede utility pockets patched on, while nomadic shawls were styled with matching knits in stripe and Navajo motifs. Playful tailored suits and sweatshirts came in blocked colours and materials. Vibrant pumpkin oranges and ...
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