Dries Van Noten: 1950′s Hollywood Decadence

Paris: This season, Dries Van Noten focused on the icons of the 1950’s and more specifically referencing the late Marilyn Monroe and Elsa Schiaparelli. Monroe came printed on anything from double-breasted suits to boxer shorts, her eyes and lips emblazoned upon knitwear, adapted from Erwin Blumenfeld’s 1950’s Vogue cover. Schiaparelli’s spirit was in lobster embroideries, beaded firebirds and ditzy palm-tree ...
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Emilio Pucci: An Italian affair – “timelessly modern, inclusively ageless and immediate”

Milan: Massimo Giorgetti made his debut as the creative director of Emilio Pucci for Pre-Summer describing the collection as a "pilot episode." "It's like the pilot of Game of Thrones, the episode where you see this world, these characters, for the first time.” It was a dramatic shift from the sexy bravado of Peter Dundas, here, Giorgetti reworked a range ...
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Acne expressionist take on Pre-Summer

New York: Expressive pieces of individuality and the use of tactile fabrics describe Jonny Johannson latest collection. For Pre-Summer the designer looked at the intelligence of naivety and the toughness of free expression encouraged by cubist Albert Gleises blended with the spray painted pop art of Mario Schifano. The first look of the expressive ensemble was a stiff bonded linen ...
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Yohji Yamamoto: Approach with Caution

Paris: Ever the risk-taker, Yohji Yamamoto’s latest offering was all about “ Caution, stripes, off limits”. Literally translated, this was represented in a series of colourful markings - reminiscent of safety strips – glaring out from not only the clothes, but as splashes of colour across the models faces. The vivid blocks of colour ran down silky black jackets and ...
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Louis Vuitton’s Globetrotting Gang

Paris: “I’ve been to 15 countries already this year,” said designer Kim Jones, backstage at the Serres du Parc André Citroen, which had been transformed into a night club, vibrating under the live sounds of disco-funk legend, Nile Rodgers. “We wanted to look at how styles share so much globally – how identities migrate.” he added. And so came a ...
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Balenciaga: Beach to Couture

New York: There are always a little bit of tongue-in-cheek touches from Wang to be found in his presentations and Pre-Summer was no exception. At Balenciaga, beach towels and logos served as a juxtaposition to the underlying theme of his collection – couture and the beach. Exploring the finite shapes of Cristobal Balenciaga, dresses were sculpted (a strong emerging trend ...
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Rick Owens: Refined Obsessions

Paris: An M-65 jacket was the seed of Rick Owens Spring 2016 collection. Though rather than making a political statement, Owens focused on the ambiguity of the item: “ It represents heroism, but also questions at the same time.” he commented. The jacket was issued in the Vietnam War by US military and not only became a staple of Military ...
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Raf Simons : An Outing with Granddad

Paris: Hoodies- the contemporary stereotype of contentious youth – yet styled in Granddad’s Madras check, the overall aesthetic is rather different. Raf Simons has always enjoyed a visual play, this time blending the past, present and future in his conceptual mixing pot, creating a brotherhood of Granddad’s, with a touch of urban innocence. And so these shrouded models (some teetering ...
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Haider Ackermann: Summer layering with an air of the Orient.

Paris: The early evening haze outside the Palais Galliera in Milan shone an intoxicating glow upon Haider Ackermann’s latest collection – “Danger” was the word emblazoned on the front of an indigo safari jacket and stitch-work along the waistline of slim cropped trousers. Dangerous indeed, Ackermann’s swarthy models, all long-limbed and bushy browed, had a certain sultry nonchalance about them, ...
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Valentino Takes us on a Round The World Tour.

Paris: This season, Maria Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took their audience on a round-the-world tour with Valentino. “Cultures becoming one culture – that’s what we find exciting”, they explained. And so came a grand melangé of global references, each look bearing exotic embellishments that made them feel personalised - without loosing their commercial edge. Looks came infused with Asian inspired ...
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Antonio Marras takes a trip from shore to shore.

Milan: One could almost smell the sea breeze at the Antonio Marras Spring/Summer collection, which depicted the life of a Sardinian sailor. There were the ubiquitous nautical stripes as well deep-sea monsters printed on loosely tailored jackets and pea coats. Layers were light and awash with texture; pattern-clashing appliqués appeared on military inspired jackets and zip through shirts, whilst a textural ...
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Fendi Takes on High-End Urban.

Milan: Deception was the key word for the Fendi Spring/Summer collection: Silvia Venturini Fendi sent out a menswear collection on what appeared to be a rain-slick gravel runway evoking scenes of dingy parking lots at midnight. The clothes were just as dark and deceptively cool, with high-class urban attitude. Functionality and comfort formed the key themes: loose, simple silhouettes were offered in ...
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MSGM: Graphic re-interpretations

Milan: MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti was shown in an industrial space lit with coloured neon strip lights setting the mood for a print-free offering inspired by Yarn bombing and the architect Anton Alvarez. Graphic re-interpretations of the labels signature stripes in varying vertical and horizontal widths adorned macs, shirts and tight jersey pieces. In addition, randomly pieced together striped panels reminiscent ...
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Burberry releases 70s influenced campaign with Rolling Stones’ offspring

Because Papa Was a Rollin' Stone... Debuting its new cool Brit gang for Autumn/Winter 15/16 Burberry once again shows off its British rock ‘n’ roll ties with a signature musician front man in the form of Tom Odell. Joining him this season is a 12-strong cast of actors, musicians and models, notably with the addition of Brit-rock royalty Ella Richards, daughter ...
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No.21: A utilitarian softness

Milan: For Alessandro Dell’Acqua, this season was all about breaking the mould. Gone were the graphic lines, the modularity, “ I wanted to focus on a much more casual look”, he explained. And so silhouettes got bigger - more layered and linear - whilst textures were softer and more tactile; this was a new direction for No.21. There was a ...
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