Wool and cashmere-inspired, androgynous beauty at Richard Chai.
Makeup: James Kaliardos, MAC
Skin: Dr. Jart+
Hair: Kevein Ryan, Aveda
Nails: Elle Gerstein, Essie
“It’s kind of like a Peter Lindbergh photo where the girls are androgynous. We’re doing an androgynous look for Richard’s collection based on masculine separates that he did in beautiful heavy fabrics like tweeds in grey and taupe tones. We wanted to put that into the face ,so we’re using taupe-y, army green colors as concealers under the eyes and taupe on the cheekbones and this coffee walnut color pressed onto the eye sockets where you get a deepening of the eye socket. It’s a very natural color. A greenish brown army color is great to use. It looks very natural and doesn’t look like shadow. It’s defined without looking too cosmetic-y. Sometimes you want to look very defined without looking like you have a lot of makeup on and this is the way to go.
The creams are great because you can use them under the eyeshadows as a base and they hold and intensify the shadow. A lot of makeup artists use a base under the shadow and it really makes the eyeshadow take and last.
We’re using MAC brushes to apply the makeup. 213 brush is a great eyeshadow brush which everyone should own. It’s a great brush for controlling what you’re doing with eyeshadow. If it’s too long and fluffy, you have no control and it gets messy. I think that a lot of women say they don’t know how to do eyeshadow but it’s because they have the wrong tool.” – James KaliardosProducts (all MAC): Dirty BLonde Impeccable Brow Pencil, Coffee Walnut Pro Sculpting Cream (on lid an crease), Marvelous Pro Longwear Shadow (under eye), Classic Nude in Pro Lip Palette, BB Cream (on cheek bone), Pro Taupe Blush
Products (all Dr. Jart+): Premium BB Beauty Balm, Water Fuse BB Beauty Balm
“These are Dr. Jart’s BB creams. It’s a multi-purpose skincare treatment and skincare that also events out the tone of the skin. So this is working really well on the guys. They need the hydration and so do the girls. Models have such an aggressive fashion week schedule that their skin really needs the hydration. And their skin is so hypersensitive so these creams are really great because it protects and evens out the skin town. And it doesn’t compete with the makeup which is a natural, radiant look.” – Kristin for Dr. Jart
“The inspiration is Richard’s girl. Richard’s girl is Richard’s girl. He’s one of those designers where when you see a Richard girl they dress a certain way. He knows how he likes them. These girls don’t try too hard, they’re not too fluffy, they’re a cool downtown girl, and there’s deconstruction in the suits today so I’m hoping I’m doing it justice.
For the girls, we’re drying everything back so there’s lots of volume. We’re using Aveda’s Volumizing Tonic to give me good oomph at the base and working with clay to give me the dry, matte texture. I’m adding a little bit of Brilliant Humectant Pomade which is going to give me some patches of shine and a good bit of texture. That way we get two products we generally wouldn’t use in the same hair – one that’s matte and one that’s shine. It gives a weird mixed-up texture. Then we put them through makeup and when they come back we flip the hair. We do a 180 turn and bring it forwards, and that’s when you get that volume you wouldn’t expect.
You know when you do one thing and you suddenly change your mind and you end up reversing and it gives a happy accident. Thats what we’re doing here. To do hair that looks this way, you have to do the opposite to do it. It’s like Richard’s suits. He made suits that look one way but changed the direction. He’s changed the way a suit should be cut so we changed the way you would style your hair. So it’s that reversal, using wrong products for the wrong things. Just a bit of wrong hopefully turns out right.
For the boys, we’re going back to the 1950s, a little bit Chet Baker. It’s like when they take off their sweater off and they get that random moment where the hair goes a bit cockatoo and messed up in the front. We’re trying to mimic the sweater removal. You reverse what happens. So its like neat men and something happened to their hair so it flops. Like Elvis. There are those moments with Elvis when his hair would flop. So its somewhere between that and Chet Baker.
Can you do this look at home?
When you’re doing it at home and its not working, flip it. You might just find something else that works. It’s like, if you’re growing out your bangs and one day you take it and you push your hair back and it turns into a new hairstyle. It’s not about trying to keep a hairstyle thats not working. It’s turning it around to find what it can turn into. Don’t just try to flog a dead horse but flip it around and make a new horse out of it.
What’s the secret to this look?
Product, pretty girls and fine tuning it at the end. Put product in and use a light touch at the end.” – Kevin Ryan
“Richard’s collection is wool and cashmere inspired. It’s very manly and androgynous for the women. So, we’re using two coats of Essie Glamour Purse, which is a creamy opaque. To mimic the wool and cashmere, instead of a traditional shiny top coat, we used a dull coat called Man-e-cure. What this does is create a texture to the nail polish. So instead of it being so high gloss, it really brought out the wool and cashmere together.
Initial thoughts of nail color trends for fall 2012?
I’ve only so far been on 2 tests but the trends that we’re seeing are bold reds, brick reds, almost like a green that has a tint of black. It’s not too kelly green but not too black either. I think we’ll also see greige taupes with a little bit of lilac thrown into that taupe” – Elle