Sharp, constrast beauty at Peter Som.
Makeup: Tom Pecheux, MAC
Hair: Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals
Nails: Sunshine Outing, Zoya
“I created a matte finish makeup. It’s very fresh with no drama. It’s a sophisticated young woman. To create that matte finish, you have to moisturize your skin very well. Use your fingers to apply the foundation because after that you will need powder to mattify your entire face and the more foundation you have the more it will reject the power which will create a cakey face. Not good. Work it in with your fingers and apply the powder with a brush. I’m adding a little bit of color to the eyebrow. I love women with confidence. Brown mascara on the lashes. I don’t want to see mascara, I just want to see beautiful lashes. On the lips I’m using a creamy nude-peach lipstick straight from the tube and to mattify the lipstick, I’m powdering a little loose powder with a little brush. I’m using the same lipstick on the eyelid, just the corner of the eyes. That’s the only place I didn’t put powder so the color gives a very nude, very fresh finish. And the only twisted thing that I’m doing, of course I always have to do that, is I’m using a violet color as a contour. I’m keeping it very high on the cheeks like a sideburn and that color adds sophistication. It’s totally fashion-forward and reminds me of colors in the collection.
Any thoughts for Fall makeup so far?
I think matte is going to be a trend and contrast, maybe glittery or shimmery.” – Tom Pecheux
“The inspiration was very different than what we usually do for Peter. It looks really rich, but not rich in an ostentatious way, its very sculptural and there’s no frou frou. It feels very pure. There’s a bit of a 90s strength. Everything is about lines. The really interesting thing about the collection are the big shoulders. They’re really big so I wanted to make the head a little bit smaller to emphasize the proportions.The look is all about tension; tension from the contrast of the small sleek head shape against the full wildness and texture at the back of the hair, and tension between the shine and precision of the top section against the arid rawness of the longer lengths.
It’s very simple to do but the simplest things are the hardest things. We’re doing a low side part so it looks very chic. We’re pulling hair into a ponytail, twisting the hair into a bun and drying it so it has a really shiny texture. We’re spraying the ponytail with a saline which changes the quality of the hair. It makes it more satin-y, so its more matte. When it’s dry, the hair is undone so that the hair falls on the back of the head. There is a lot of control and you get the neck.” – Eugene SouleimanProducts (all Wella): Enrich Shampoo and Conditioner, Stay Brilliant Color Protecting Lotion, Stay Essential Hairspray, Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray
“We created three custom nail polish shades for Peter Som. We’re using Audrey on the fingers and Evvie on the toes. The great thing about Audrey is that it doesn’t translate white the way most soft pinks do. And, the addition of the peach keeps it very wearable and warm on the skin, which is completely appropriate for Fall. The second color you’re going to see coming down the runway on the toes is Evvie – and Evvie is a smoky evergreen. I think its modern because most of the greens you’ve seen in the past few seasons for fall have been yellowed or blackened. This one is greyed and I think that makes it very modern and very fresh. The third color is in the assortment is Katherine. And Catherine isn’t walking down the runway because Katherine is a special effect topper. It looks like an eggplant in the bottle but it goes on sheer on the nail. It is gorgeous and you can use it over any of your spring colors that you have that you love. Just put one coat of Catherine over them and you end up with a beautiful translation into Fall from Spring.
These colors were designed with the Peter Som team and it was their idea to do a sheer. They wanted to do soemthing that was a wash of color that would pull from the colors in their collection and allow people to update what they already have. These limited edition colors will be available on Zoya.com just a few hours after the fashion show. They come in a beautiful gift box and it has the story inside of how we created the collection.
Here’s a little tip for when you’re using Katherine on its own. Because its a jelly formulation, I use a top coat as a base coat. I apply my top coat as a base coat, one coat of the jelly and then a top coat on top. Because the color is translucent, the light goes through the color and bounces off that topcoat. It look like you have a spotlight on your nails. And if you do two coats, it translates to look like a gel manicure.” – Rebecca Isa