Author Archives: Shannon Davenport

Yohji Yamamoto -

OUT OF THIS WORLD Paris: A master of fantastical fashion, Yohji Yamamoto experimented with both volume and print for Fall, with an impish collection that seemed to channel other-worldly beings. Supersized florals and graffiti monsters were splashed across sleeping-bag inspired coats, and chunky scarves added even more drama to the silhouette.—Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Overstuffed coats / Cropped pants / Capes / ...
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A.F. Vandevorst -

ARMED FORCES Paris: Perfectly in step with the emerging military trend of the F/W14 season, A.F. Vandevorst showed an elegant, uniform-inspired collection. A tomboy aesthetic ran throughout, from sporty tops to baggy jumpsuits and baseball caps, but long chic coats and sweeping hemlines added a contemporary touch.—Shannon Davenport   Key Items:  Knit mini skirts / Cargo jackets / Maxi skirts / Utility ...
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Balmain -

ARTISANAL ARMY Paris: The mood at Balmain this season was all about having fun with fashion. Designer Olivier Rousteing showed a playfully chic collection that was inspired by the jungle, mixing tropical brights with crisp military tones. Craftsmanship was evident in every detail, from the rope knotted tops and dresses to the sparkly metallic chains that were woven directly into garments.—Shannon ...
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Sharon Wauchob -

GLAMOROUS GRUNGE Paris: For fall Sharon Wauchob fully embraced 1990s nostalgia, exploring a feisty grunge sensibility worthy of Courtney Love herself. A sophisticated black palette and a range of sensual fabrics kept the collection from feeling too gritty though, and twisting and draping hugged the body in a fresh, beguiling way. —Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Slip dresses / Tailored coats / ...
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Ann Demeulemeester -

DARK POETRY Paris: In the wake of Ann Demeulemeester’s sudden departure from her namesake line earlier this year, former menswear designer Sébastien Meunier made sure to honor the core DNA of the beloved Belgian fashion house with his debut collection. Androgyny was a key concept, with twisting and layering creating loose, drapey silhouettes, which were made even more dramatic by the ...
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Stella Jean -

CULTURE CLUB Milan: Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean brought a much needed breath of fresh air into Milan Fashion Week with her youthful, modern spin on globally-inspired dressing. This season, she mixed African prints with Japanese tailoring, accented by an earthen palette of desert-worthy hues, with standout pieces including voluminous bell dresses and chunky kimono cardigans. — Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Maxi cardigans ...
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Massimo Rebecchi -

TEXTURE PLAY Milan: Massimo Rebecchi’s Fall girl was one part girly and one part sporty, but the collection maintained a clean, feminine aesthetic throughout. Material blocking and contrast texture emerged as a key concept, with looks that combined fuzzy mohair, sheer lace and shiny brocade.—Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Wool coats / Cropped jackets / Patchwork furs / Pencil skirts / Shirtdresses ...
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Trussardi -

NOUVELLE VAGUE Milan: The storied Italian house continues to gain fashion fans with Gaia Trussardi, great granddaughter of Dante Trussardi, at the helm. Inspired by the coquettish actresses of the French New Wave, the collection embraced traditional menswear fabrics and relied on expertly layered boyfriend-borrowed pieces in chic neutrals. — Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Leather dresses / Oversized trousers / Trucker jackets ...
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John Richmond -

VELVET UNDERGROUND Milan: For Fall, John Richmond took a trip back to the time of New York’s “Factory” era, specifically inspired by the iconic style of Andy Warhol and Nico. The singer’s portrait was splashed on sweatshirts and jackets, as was the brand’s signature skull motif, which was richly embellished. A section of slinky evening dresses lent a modern, sensual edge. ...
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Gabriele Colangelo -

ELEGANT ARTISTRY Milan: This season Gabriele Colangelo was inspired by the work of Russian abstract painter Kazimir Malevich, exploring the square graphic motif in myriad ways. Fabrics were artfully folded layered and pieced, and the restrained grayscale palette kept the focus of the collection on form and structure. — Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Zippered jackets / Woven tees / Structured sweatshirts / ...
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Cividini -

POSH PATCHWORK Milan: Cividini made a strong case for Fall layering with a collection of full of clean lines and clever combinations of print and texture. Jackets, sweaters and skirts managed to look clean despite being cleverly piled on, and patterns made an impact against soft greys and pale yellows. — Shannon Davenport Key Items: Cropped jackets / Double breasted coats / Cardigans ...
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Costume National -

OPPOSITES ATTRACT Milan: For Fall, designer Ennio Capasa wanted his models to be walking contradictions, quite literally. The collection was all about mixing—masculine with feminine and tailoring with sport—and the result was refreshingly modern. Looks alternated between classically pretty and no-nonsense and silhouettes ran the gamut of hemlines, opening up the brand to a wide array of women. — Shannon Davenport Key Items: ...
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Krizia -

CLEAN LINES Milan: Creative director Mariuccia Mandelli offered an elegant approach to femininity for Fall. Perfectly in step with the brand's signature sleek glamor, the collection showcased the female form through slinky silhouettes and expertly tailored suiting. A restrained palette of neutrals, rust and blue was a calculated mix of minimalism and romance. — Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Pleated skirts / Wrap ...
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Just Cavalli -

FESTIVAL FIRENZE Milan: For his young contemporary line Just Cavalli, Roberto Cavalli picked up on the upcoming festival season frenzy, with a playfully bohemian collection peppered with references to the '60s and '70s. Color and print made a serious splash, with collaged graphics popping against faded fluorescent hues and fringed trim hammered the inspiration home. — Shannon Davenport   Key Items: Patchwork furs ...
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Angelo Marani -

ART CLASS Milan: Celebrating traditional Italian femininity was the mission at Angelo Marani this season, with a wide array of silhouettes that ranged from nipped and tailored to long and flowing. Prints and patterns were inspired by late 19th century art movements, including Art Deco and French impressionism. — Shannon Davenport Key Items: Longline moto jackets / Fitted sheaths / Side slit skirts ...
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