Ann Demeulemeester
By Joanna Manganaro

21ST CENTURY GOTH Paris: It seems the goth look will never go out of style, ensuring Ann Demeulemeester’s lasting relevance. Though she has been …

Sep 27, 2012
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Ann Demeulemeester S/S 2013
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Ann Demeulemeester S/S 2013

21ST CENTURY GOTH
Paris: It seems the goth look will never go out of style, ensuring Ann Demeulemeester’s lasting relevance. Though she has been putting out drape-y black looks since the 80s, Demeulemeester’s shows can still offer an element of newness and surprise. For spring, in addition to all the obligatory black, there was a compelling grape hue. Satin pieces in the tone looked rich and luxurious. Silver and ivory also made an appearance, used for suiting separates and billowy charmeuse dresses. A large portion of the collection was devoted to gowns, many of which featured trailing panels of chiffon. Leather harnesses, another Demeulemeester signature, added a tough, solid counterpoint to the etherealness and fluidity. With the harnesses, the shiny silvers, and the models’ triangular sections of hair, there was a futuristic element at play. Demeulemeester’s formula has worked for three decades, so it’s likely that chic goths of the future will still be wearing her clothes. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Long + languid / Hourglass / A-line / Layered / Abbreviated

Color: Black / Grape / Silver / Ivory

Key Items: Oversized blazers / Satin slim pants / Charmeuse gowns / Drape-y chiffon gowns

Materials: Fine-gauge jersey / Satin / Silk charmeuse / Chiffon / Fluid silks / Lightweight suitings / Leather

Details + Trim: Long chiffon panels / Extra-long sleeves / Sharp shoulders / Layering / Veiling / Slashed armholes

Accessories + Footwear: Extra-wide leather belts / Leather harnesses / Platform peep-toe boots

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


Ann Demeulemeester
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